Category: Stone

Over a period of time natural stone can become abraded, etched, scratched, or otherwise damaged, depending on its use. A fully trained and qualified stone restoration contractor will offer the following services.

• Grinding—Removes deep scratches and lippage (uneven tile edges)
• Seam Polishing— Visible seams are filled and mechanically polished to virtually disappear
• Honing—Remove minor scratches and wear
• Polishing—Gives marble or natural stone the desired sheen, protects the surface from everyday traffic and spills
• Alter a Finish—Change a stone’s finish, for example, from honed to polished finish and vice versa
• Cleaning—Removes dirt, stains, bacteria and also removes waxes and polymers that have become embedded
• Sealing—Reduces staining
• Color Enhancing—Penetrating sealers / impregnators enhance or enrich the color of your stone
• Crack and Chip Repair—Fills cracks and chips in both marble and granite
• Fill Pits and Blemishes—Fills limestone and travertine imperfections
• Stripping—Removes coatings that can block a stone’s ability to breathe
• Grout Cleaning and Sealing—Removal of deep contaminants in grout, then sealing for protection and easier maintenance

Interview Questions 

Here is a list of questions you should ask when interviewing the potential restoration contractor to whom you will entrust your natural stone. A qualified professional understands the leap of faith you are taking in hiring them and should neither balk at, nor be offended by any of the following questions. If they seem more interested in quickly securing the contract than in setting your mind at ease regarding their competence and qualifications, think carefully about whether they are the right one for the job.

What training have you had?

When hiring any contractor the more informed you are about the service you need, the better off you are. As with any profession the proper training is extremely important. You do not want to leave your natural stone in the hands of an improperly trained contractor. A properly trained company has received hands-on training in these application processes. Be sure to ask any prospective contractor about their training and certification.

Are you insured?

Ask for proof. Have him show you a certificate of insurance, or, if the job is large enough, have his insurance company send you one. Be sure he carries liability and workers’ compensation insurance.  Any reputable company will carry both.

Do you carry workers compensation insurance?

Workers Compensation Insurance protects you from liability if a worker is injured while on your property. Be aware that if the contractor does not carry workers compensation coverage, you will be liable for any injuries suffered by the contractor or any of his employees on your property. If the contractor is a one-man operation, he can be exempt from having to carry workers compensation insurance. Ask him to show you his certificate of exemption from workers compensation. This is very risky for you though. If he shows up with a helper and the helper gets hurt, with no workers compensation insurance, you may have to pay the medical bills. If the uninsured contractor is sloppy about verifying his sub-contractor’s workers compensation insurance and the sub-contractor gets hurt, again you may have to pay the medical bills.

Can you supply me with a list of references?

Ask for references—and check them.  Many contractors in all fields have references, but you’d be surprised how rarely they are actually checked.  Call at least two and ask if the contractor did a good job. Were there any problems and, if so, did he correct them? Were his employees professional? Were the surrounding areas carefully protected?

What professional organizations are you a member of?

Well established companies are affiliated with professional organizations.  For the stone and tile industry, it might be Surface Care PROSS or The Marble Institute of America, among others. In all cases, these organizations only attract conscientious contractors interested in bettering the industry and in weeding out unprofessional contractors. In order to become a member, the contractor’s background and references are thoroughly investigated. While a new contractor may not be a member of any professional organizations, it is highly unlikely an established contractor would not be a member of at least one, unless there is a reason that he cannot join.

What are the risks? While the risks may be minor, there are contractors that just don’t belong to any professional organizations, they are the rare exception and the vast majority of substantial companies do belong, because they understand the benefits of continuing education and peer review.

What are your work practices?

It can’t be stressed enough how important this information can be to you! Ask questions such as, how do they perform their work? What time do they start? How will they protect your carpets and surrounding cabinetry, etc.? How will the trash and debris be handled? The answers to these questions will give you a clear picture what type of contractor you are dealing with.

Contracts

Is their contract simple and straight-forward? Simple doesn’t mean it is right, and complicated doesn’t mean it is wrong, but the bottom line is: if you can’t understand it, or it is too complicated, make sure to get a clear understanding ― in writing!

Don’t hesitate to trust your gut feeling ― are you comfortable with the contractor? This is much more important than you might think!

This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Can Skin Soap Damage Natural Stone?

If you have marble or other natural stone shower walls or tub surrounds, the skin soap you use can damage, stain, or diminish the appearance of your stone, especially if your stone is porous or calcium-based. With an abundance of skin cleaning products on the market, from bars and scrubs to foams and gels, knowing which ones to avoid using around your natural stone can be tricky. This article provides the details you need.

The Safest Soaps Are pH Neutral

The pH scale is a range of 0 to 14 to describe how acidic or basic, or alkaline a substance is. When something is pH-neutral, it is 7 on the pH scale. Soaps that are less than 7 are acidic. Soaps that are greater than 7 are alkaline. The safest soaps for both human skin and natural stone are pH-neutral, and do not contain detergents (synthetic cleaners), surfactants (surface active agents), dyes, fragrances, sulfates, and other additives.

What is soap, anyhow? According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration,

Ordinary soap is made by combining fats or oils and an alkali, such as lye. The fats and oils, which may be from animal, vegetable, or mineral sources, are degraded into free fatty acids, which then combine with the alkali to form crude soap. The lye reacts with the oils, turning what starts out as liquid into blocks of soap. When made properly, no lye remains in the finished product.

The easiest way to determine whether your skin soap is ordinary, pH-neutral soap is to purchase skin soap specifically marked on the label as pH-neutral. You may also purchase a digital pH meter or litmus paper to test soap.

Acidic Soaps Can Cause Etch Damage

One of the most widely recognized acid etch marks is what many people refer to as “water marks” on a kitchen countertop, because when acidic drink spills go unnoticed a little too long, the etch damage left behind can have the same circular shape as that of condensation left behind from a glass. Acidic soaps used for cleaning your skin can cause the same type of damage in the shower as in the kitchen.

Acids in skin soap chemically react with calcite or other minerals in the stone that are sensitive to acid, causing a white discoloration and roughening the surface of the stone. This damage cannot be wiped or washed away using regular cleaning methods. Your professional stone restoration technician may attempt to remove very mild etching with a polishing powder. Deep etch removal, however, will require honing and polishing.

Basic (Alkaline) Soaps Can Cause Etch Damage

One of the most widely recognized alkaline etch marks is a white spot on glass after going through a dishwasher with an inadequate rinse cycle. Similarly, regular use of soaps with a high alkaline content can etch the finish of your natural stone.

Alkaline etch damage cannot simply be wiped or cleaned away. Your professional stone restoration technician may attempt to remove alkaline etch damage with a mild acid, but since acid can also cause etch damage, chances are your stone will need to be honed and polished.

Soap Dyes or Fats Can Stain or Discolor Natural Stone

Some soaps contain dyes or colorants to give the product a more attractive appearance. If stone is porous, it can absorb dyes, especially blue, green, or turquoise dyes, causing the surface to darken or become discolored.

Some soaps are made from a high fat source, like coconut oil. An abundance of this ingredient can, over the course of time, act like a natural color-enhancing or darkening agent.

If a small area of your stone is stained, poulticing can draw the discoloration out of the stone. Visit our Stain Management App under the Resources tab for poultice ingredients and instructions, including a how-to video. If discolorations or stains persist or if they cover a large area, your professional stone restoration technician may be able to use a combination of honing, polishing, sealing, and enhancing to mask or diminish the problem to your satisfaction.

Soap Scum Can Diminish the Appearance of Stone

When minerals in your water interact with soap residues and surfactants, a thin film of soap scum can form on your stone. The best way to prevent this is to keep the shower clean. Use a squeegee to wipe your stone down after a shower, and clean your stone once per week with stone-safe, neutral cleaner.

Feel free to contact us regarding any specific questions or concerns you may have about your soap and your stone. To protect the finish of your natural stone shower walls or tub surrounds purchase soap that is safe for natural stone. Your skin may thank you, as well.

This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Choosing a stone restoration contractor by comparing bids based only on price can be a costly mistake. There are other important factors to consider before you make a decision. Here are three tips for comparing stone restoration bids.

1. Does your contractor understand your particular type of stone?

Although there are similarities between marble, granite, travertine, and other types of stone, there are also differences that require specific restoration processes. Janitorial and cleaning companies may provide valuable services but their technicians are rarely properly trained, qualified, or experienced when it comes to natural stone restoration. Even some stone restoration companies may have little or no experience with your specific type of natural stone. Be sure to ask what your prospective contractor knows about your stone. They may offer the cheapest price, but in the wrong hands, your stone could end up with poor quality results or problems such as dimpled or wavy surfaces.

2. Are there hidden costs not included in the bid?

Basic stone restoration involves honing to remove surface damage and polishing to restore the finish of the stone. Your prospective contractor may not have included other procedures necessary to make your stone look brand new again in the bid. For example, does your stone have deep scratches, chips, or cracks? If the bid only includes honing and polishing, the contractor is not legally obligated to do special repair work. Does your stone need to be sealed? If so, check if sealer application is included in the bid.

3. Will the contractor be able to accommodate your schedule?

Scheduling is important for many people, but especially for business owners and property managers. In order to minimize disruption to the normal routines of employees, guests, and patrons, it’s important to know that your contractor can provide a plan of action that includes a start and finish date, and if necessary, work during the least busy hours or make special accommodations, such as keeping sections of flooring open for traffic while they work. Be sure to communicate your needs and confirm these details before accepting a bid.

Once you’ve taken the time to select contractors and gather bids for your stone restoration project, follow these tips to make an informed decision so that you will be happy with the entire experience, not just the price.

This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Why Pool Decks Turn Green and Black

What is that green and black stuff growing on my pool deck? This is a question pool owners often ask. This article will help you identify and remove pool deck discoloration, as well as minimize the likelihood of future discoloration.

Biological Growth Types

The majority of unsightly green and black spots on pool decks are the result of biological growths in the form of algae, molds, lichens and mosses, and plants such as ivy and grasses. Let’s take a look at each:

• Algae is commonly green in color but can also be black, orange, red or yellow. It is easy to identify since it grows in mats, films, and patches on the surface of stone, brick and concrete. Algae is a single-cell plant but lacks roots, leaves, stems and vascular tissue. Most algae, especially the green type, needs moisture and sunlight to grow. However, there are species that will grow in damp, low-light areas.
• Moss is most commonly green but can also be red. Like algae, it requires sunlight and moisture to grow. It also needs a mineral source often found in soils. Unlike algae, moss has a root structure and a very small leaf structure. It will often grow in grout between stone and masonry.
• Mold is a fungus, not a plant. It does not require sunlight but does require moisture and an organic food source. Mold is generally black in color but can also be red, orange, brown, or yellow. Limestone is especially susceptible to mold growth, since it contains organic matter that can feed mold.
• Lichens are comprised of a fungus living in a symbiotic relationship with an algae or a relative of bacteria called cyanobacterium (or both in some instances). They can be red, yellow, red, green, or white. Lichens are identified by crusts or leaf-like structures with defined borders growing away from the surface of the stone or masonry.
• Ivy, grasses, and higher plants are easily identified by their root systems and large leaf structures. They are often green in color.

Removal of Biological Growth

Regardless of the type of biological growth, removal requires the use of biocide cleaning chemicals, such as peroxide, bleach, or other biocides. Here is a basic cleaning procedure that is recommended to remove these growths. Be sure to carefully read the directions on chemicals and take all necessary precautions. Wear gloves and protective clothing. A mask is recommended, since some mold and algae can emit spores that can be harmful to your respiratory system.

Algae is best removed when it is dry since the spores are more likely to become airborne when wet. Allow the surface to fully dry, or expedite the drying process with a fan. Remove as much algae as possible by scraping or scrubbing with a stiff broom or brush.

A pressure washer can be used to remove the remaining biological growth, but there are a few additional precautions and recommendations:

1. Do not use high pressure. Test the pressure in a non-conspicuous area to make sure you are not damaging the stone or masonry.
2. Use hot water, if possible. Hot water will kill some of the biological growth and sanitize the surface.
3. Use a wide nozzle tip to minimize damage. Keep the tip of the wand at least 12 inches away from the surface.
4. Bleach or vinegar can be used to clean stubborn growth. Mix the bleach or vinegar. Use one cup of bleach or vinegar with one gallon of water. Test this mixture in a non-conspicuous area to see if it will cause discoloration. Some stone and masonry types can lighten, discolor, or etch with bleach or vinegar.
5. Apply the bleach or vinegar mixture on the deck and allow it to sit for 15-20 minutes. Do not let it dry. (If it accidentally dries, apply more of this mixture.)
6. Scrub the area with a nylon brush. Rinse with plenty of clean water. Be careful to avoid nearby plants, since this mixture can kill landscaping plants and grasses.

In lieu of bleach or vinegar, you can use many of the commercial cleaners appropriate for your pool deck surface type. You can find them at most home centers. If your pool deck is natural stone, be sure to use a pH-neutral, stone-safe cleaner. Read the directions carefully.

Spot Removal

If you have just a few spots, you can use 3% hydrogen peroxide. Simply spray the growth with the peroxide, allow it to sit for several minutes, and then rinse with water.

Prevention

Your best defense to keep biological growth at bay is to clean the deck on a regular basis. We can professionally clean your pool deck for the best results. We can also apply sealers and preventive biocides to inhibit new growth.

We can provide specific recommendations regarding cleaners for green and black growth on your pool deck.

This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

It’s kind of funny what people who should know better will say about common stone failures or issues. Over the past several years, we have heard many stories about the reasons stone will fail, turn color, fade, and so on. Many are comical and most are just plain false. Here’s a sampling you may enjoy…

A Warped Sense of Humor

Many seasoned installers who have tried to install green marble tiles with ordinary thin set or other water-based setting materials have experienced warping problems. Here are two ways we’ve heard them explained.

1. Myth: “Green Marble will warp because it contains living plant material. As water is added to the marble, the plants start to grow and this makes the marble warp.” We nearly fell over laughing, but he wasn’t kidding. He really thought this was the reason.

2. Myth: “Green Marble will curl on the edges because the installer did not put enough setting mortar on the edges. The green marble will have a tendency to lift off the floor where there is no mortar and hence will curl.” While not quite as outrageous as the first explanation, it is still just as wrong.
Truth: The real reason green marble warps is a condition known as hysterisis. Green marble is very sensitive to moisture. When water enters the stone, it causes the marble to release any internal stress, thus causing it to warp.

Home Sweet What?

3. Myth: “Your stone floor needs to be homed!”
Truth: No, this is not a spelling mistake – the word used was “homed.” We have run into several sales people who have called the honing process “homing.” Maybe they also worked with pigeons, but we’ve never heard of homing a floor. The proper term, of course, is “HONE,” which means to abrade a stone.

“Plop, Plop, Fizz, Fizz…”

4. Myth: “Your stone floor has an effervescence problem.”
Truth: The key word here is “effervescence.” Let’s clear this up right now. Efflorescence is the deposit of soluble salts on the surface of the stone that is caused by water that carries the salts from the setting bed of the stone to the surface; it is often deposited as a white powder-like residue on the surface of the stone. Effervescence is what happens when something fizzes. A good example is when you drop a tablet of Alka-Seltzer into a glass of water. The fizzing is referred to as “effervescence.” We’ve never seen a stone effervesce unless someone was pouring acid on it!

5. Myth: “Sealing your stone will help with your efflorescence problem.” Truth: We’ve heard so-called experts instruct people with an efflorescence problem to seal the stone as a remedy. This is wrong. Sealing will only block or reduce the pore size of the stone, which will not only cause more efflorescence, but it could also cause spalling, which is when the stone flakes at the surface.

Are You Cracked?

6. Myth: “That’s not a crack, it’s a fissure!”
Truth: Many fabricators will try to blame cracks that occur in stone installations on natural fissures that occur in the stone. Sometimes they are right and sometimes they are wrong. If you look up the word “fissure” in the dictionary, guess what? A fissure is a crack. The distinction they are trying to make is between fissures, which are naturally occurring as part of the formation of the stone and cracks (more appropriately called “breaks”) caused by external forces on the stone. Of course, the most likely place for a break to occur is on a natural fissure. Consequently, definitions need to be clarified and the stone needs to be examined carefully to determine if natural fissures are at risk of becoming breaks during normal usage.

Would You Like Some Salad With That?

7. Myth: “To remove oil from stone, saturating it with water will force the oil out.” Truth: Since it is true that oil floats on water, you would think this makes sense. But trust us, it doesn’t work. The oil is trapped in the pores of the stone and no amount of water is going to force it out. The best way to remove oil from stone is with a poultice and a degreasing chemical. For specifics and poulticing instructions, see https://surfacecarepros.com/stain-management-app/ .

8. Myth: “Just use some vinegar and water to clean your marble or limestone.” Truth: Generally folks in the stone business know better, however this is often recommended by tile installers. Don’t do it! Vinegar is an acid and will etch calcium-based stone. Marble and limestone are generally the most susceptible, but some types of granite will also be damaged by vinegar.

Stones Can Be So Vein!

9. Myth: “If it’s got veins, it’s marble.” Truth: This is a fib we hear all the time. Many people in the industry believe that if a stone has veins, it must be marble. This is totally false. Veins can also be found in granite and limestone.

You Make Me Sick!

10. Myth: “Granite countertops harbor bacteria and emit harmful radon gas.” Truth: This is absolutely FALSE! NIOSH and the CDC have no reports of granite or any other stone used as a countertop being unsafe. If stone were unsafe or unsanitary, why would it be used in food laboratories or sold as cutting boards? There has been no known proof of any illness caused by using stone as a countertop. And as for the rumors that granite contains harmful radon gas — there is so little radon in granite that you would have to live to be 10,000 years old for it to have an ill effect on you. There is likely more radon coming from the ground and the concrete that your house is built on.