Protect Carpet During Renovation

How to Protect Carpet During Renovation

Posted on by Surface Care PROS Support

How to Protect Carpet During Renovation

There are many potential ways your carpet can get badly soiled or damaged during an interior renovation project. Contractors with steel-toed boots go in and out to retrieve supplies, tools, and equipment, remove demolished materials, and bring in new materials, which may include paint, adhesives, and chemicals. Although reputable contractors will protect the surfaces surrounding their work area, property owners should take extra precautions to avoid costly repair or replacement of carpeting. Here are some tips to safeguard your carpets during interior renovation projects.

Moving Furniture

Your renovation project may require moving furniture. Do not slide furniture across carpeting, because this can increase the odds of a snag, tear, friction damage, or other damage to your carpet. In many cases, you can move furniture with the help of a few able-bodied friends and the proper tools, such as furniture straps, stair rollers, moving blankets, a dolly, slides or ramps, and furniture glides. The easiest way to avoid injuring yourself or damaging your carpet, furniture, or other surfaces while moving very heavy or large furniture is to leave the job to professionals who are fully equipped to efficiently and effectively get your belongings from one room to another without incident. Just make sure your movers are properly licensed and insured.

Dust Containment

Airborne dust particles can create a health hazard, especially for people with respiratory issues. Dust particles can be abrasive, and if dust becomes embedded in carpeting, the particles can act like thousands of tiny shards of glass that tear and break carpet fibers every time someone takes a step. Hang plastic sheeting to contain dust within the work area and help maintain proper air quality throughout the rest of the home or building.

Carpet Coverings

The following protective products shield your carpeting against spills, construction dust, and soiling. Some products work better than others, depending on the design and quality of the product and what type of carpet and padding you are covering.

  • Carpet film is the most convenient and best option to protect against spills and soiling on synthetic carpeting. Spills will not penetrate, provided there are no holes in the material caused by foot traffic. Carpet film is designed to be tough and does not tear or puncture easily. DO NOT use carpet film on wool or other natural fibers.
  • Canvas painter’s drop cloths serve as a barrier between your carpet and soiling agents. They provide some protection against spills, but liquids can seep through if a large amount is spilled at once. Canvas will hold up well against foot traffic, because it doesn’t tear or puncture easily.
  • Plastic painter’s drop cloths also protect against soiling and provide better protection than canvas against spills. It does not hold up as well to tears or punctures as canvas. Plastic painter’s drop cloths should be properly secured with tape to avoid trip and fall accidents.
  • Protective floor coverings made with both absorbent fabric and plastic backing have all the combined benefits of canvas and plastic drop cloths.
  • Thick flooring paper may be appropriate to use on thin carpeting with limited padding. Do not use tinted flooring paper, because if it gets wet, the color can bleed onto your carpeting. Paper should be properly secured with tape to avoid trip and fall accidents. Paper can offer protection against soiling and splatters, but significant spills can seep through.

Remove and Reinstall Carpeting?

For major renovation projects involving walls or ceilings near carpeted areas, you might consider having a professional carpet installer remove your carpet and then reinstall it once the project is complete. Although this approach might seem extreme, there may be certain projects where this extra precautious approach to carpet protection might be worthwhile.

After Renovation

Thoroughly vacuuming carpets each time floor coverings are replaced and after the project is complete is highly recommended. However, even the most thorough vacuuming may not be enough to remove particles that have become lodged in the fibers and backing of your carpet, as well as residual odors left behind by chemicals and other construction products. Your best bet to protect against premature wear following a renovation project is to have your carpets professionally cleaned. Professional cleaning flushes out deeply embedded contaminants, leaving your carpets fresh, clean, and inviting.

Follow these tips to protect your carpets during interior renovation. You’ll worry less, possibly avoid costly repair or replacement, and increase the likelihood that you’ll get the full lifespan out of your carpeting.

This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Countertop Overhang

Why Countertop Overhangs Matter

Posted on by Surface Care PROS Support

Why Countertop Overhangs Matter

If you’re in the market for new countertops, you may be curious about countertop overhangs. There are standard, extended, or flush-mounted tops. Are overhangs essential? How far can an overhang extend without support? Let’s take a look at countertop overhangs.

Overhang vs Flush

A countertop overhang is exactly as it sounds. It is the portion of the countertop that extends beyond the cabinet underneath, usually by about 1.5 inches. If there is no overhang, the countertop is said to be flush with the cabinet. Although countertops can be installed flush, you may want to reconsider a flush install for the following reasons:

  • CLEANING SPILLS
    Spills are inevitable on kitchen countertops, where food and beverage preparation take place. Sometimes spills happen in bathrooms on vanity tops, too. Countertop overhangs keep spills from dribbling all over the cabinet faces and the edges of doors and drawers, as well as handles and pulls. With countertop overhangs, spills fall directly to the floor, where they can be easily wiped up.
  • HIDING IMPERFECTIONS
    Countertop overhangs can hide minor variations in cabinet alignment.
  • CABINET WARRANTY
    Check your cabinet warranty. It may require an overhang to protect cabinets against damage from liquids.
  • PROTRUDING HARDWARE
    With flush cabinets, the handles and pulls on your doors and drawers will protrude further than the countertop, which may result in pockets, belt loops, sleeves or other objects constantly getting caught.
  • CLEANING CRUMBS AND DEBRIS
    Although crumbs and loose debris likely won’t damage your cabinet face, wiping the little bits and pieces off of countertops with no overhang can be a challenge. Think about it. When people wipe crumbs from a top, they place an open hand to catch the crumbs just below the overhanging edge.

Extended Overhangs Need Support

Countertops can be extended beyond the supporting cabinet to create a space in the kitchen that can serve various purposes, from food prep to buffet-style serving to a seating or desk area. Since cabinets serve as the support for countertops and overhangs go beyond the cabinet edge, extended overhangs will need dependable support. Wall mounted tops, desks, shower benches, mantels, and shelves will also need support. This may be accomplished with legs, corbels, decorative brackets, or hidden brackets.

Decorative Support

Legs, corbels, and decorative brackets can visually enhance traditional style kitchens in addition to the support they provide for extended overhangs. If you are using an extended countertop overhang for seating, you’ll need about a foot of overhang to make space for feet and knees. For seating areas, decorative supports are referred to as knee-knockers because in cramped sitting areas, they sometimes get in the way.

Hidden Support Brackets

For sleek, modern kitchens or tighter spaces with less leg room, hidden support brackets are ideal. Your countertop can “float,” seemingly unsupported. The brackets are virtually invisible, because one would need to bend down and look at the countertop from underneath to see the supporting hardware. Hidden support brackets are also a great option for slabs installed on top of a pony wall (short wall, often used for standard height or bar height seating).

How far can a countertop overhang be extended without support?

People sometimes ask how far a countertop overhang can be extended without adding support, perhaps to save a few bucks. A common misconception is that natural stone and engineered stone are impervious to damage. Without proper support, even a very thick slab can break. Regardless of material type and thickness, all countertop materials will need support for extended overhangs. Reputable fabricators and installers will not take any chances and will follow the NSI (Natural Stone Institute) Standards for natural stone installations and manufacturer standards for engineered stone. Insufficient support will end up costing a lot more in the long run.

This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Marble Etch

How to Remove Ring-Shaped Marks on Marble

Posted on by Surface Care PROS Support

How to Remove Ring-Shaped Marks on Marble

Here is a question people commonly ask us: “What causes ring-shaped marks and white spots on marble?” Questions like these usually follow: “Is there a product I can use to get rid of this type of stain?” and “Is there a sealer I can apply to restore the shine and prevent this problem?” Sometimes people believe that when surface damage happens, it means they will need to replace their marble. Let’s unpack these concepts.

The Cause of Ring-Shaped Marks and White Spots on Marble

Some people refer to ring-shaped marks on marble as “water rings.” These marks and spots on marble are likely not stains, but acid etch damage. If the discoloration is lighter than the stone, it is an etch, not a stain. Marble contains calcium carbonate, a substance that chemically reacts with acids in certain types of food and drinks, and this is what causes acid etch damage on marble surfaces.

Product for DIY Etch Removal

A high quality marble polishing powder can be used to remove etch marks from polished marble, as long as the damage is not too severe. Run your finger over the area you intend to treat. If it feels smooth and has no rough texture compared to the surrounding finish, then you can use the polishing powder and a clean white cloth to remove the spots. Note: Marble polishing powder should not be used on marble with a honed / satin-matte finish. Although it will remove mild etch damage, it will also change that area to a polished finish that is inconsistent with the surrounding honed finish. If the etch damage is too severe to handle on your own or your marble has a honed finish, professional stone restoration services can give your marble a like-new finish.

What Sealers Can and Can’t Do

A common misconception is that the impregnating sealers commonly applied to marble countertops can prevents stains and etch damage and restore the shine. If sealing is recommended for your stone, it will simply buy some time to wipe up spills before they become stains, and it should only be applied by your professional stone restoration technician. When impregnating sealer is applied to marble, the appearance of the finish does not change at all. For complete stain and etch protection, as well as elegant finish options, etch protection treatments and protective films are ideal solutions. Unlike impregnating sealers that penetrate into the stone, protection treatments and films form a barrier between marble and acidic substances.

Don’t Replace Your Marble

Replacing etch damaged marble would be costly and completely unnecessary. Use a marble polishing powder to remove etch damage or have it professionally restored. For more information about marble care or stain management, download our free Stone and Tile Care Guide and use our Stain App under the Resources tab on this site. Contact us for specific product recommendations, answers to questions about your marble, or to schedule services.

This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Treating Cat and Dog Urine Odor on Carpet

How to Treat Pet Urine Odor in Carpet

Posted on by Surface Care PROS Support

How to Treat Pet Urine Odor in Carpet

Have you ever visited the home of a friend or family member and noticed first thing as you walked through the front door the unmistakeable smell of cat or dog urine? Chances are your loved one is either unaware of the problem or already aware but unable to find a solution. This article explains the dangers of pet urine odor, as well as how to eliminate the problem.

Why People Don’t Notice Pet Urine Odor

There’s a reason people can become oblivious to the smell of pet urine in their homes. The human sense of smell adapts and loses sensitivity over time with consistent exposure to certain odors.

Pamela Dalton, a cognitive psychologist at Monell Chemical Senses Center, explains,

When our odor receptors are repeatedly exposed to the same smells, they stop responding. Spending so much time in the same environment means that we are constantly smelling the odors within our homes. Odor adaptation differs from such other senses as hearing. Most people can tune out a noisy street sound, but if they pay enough attention, they can bring those sounds back into their awareness. On the other hand, when we adapt to an odor, it smells much weaker or not at all, and we cannot will ourselves to smell it again. In fact, depending on how long we’re exposed to the odor, we may need days or weeks to recover our sensitivity to it.

People may be fully aware of a pet urine odor problem, but they do not have success in treating pet urine odors. Eliminating pet urine odor is easier said than done. A pet accident may look like a small spot on the surface of carpet, but the urine can spread out in the carpet padding underneath, and even the subfloor can get saturated. No amount of carpet cleaning can eliminate this problem, especially if this type of contamination is present in multiple areas throughout the home.

Dangers of Pet Urine Odor

All urine contains ammonia. Obviously, in an ideal situation, pet urine in a residential environment is prevented or eliminated before it becomes a problem. In homes with carpeting, pet accidents may be cleaned improperly or go unnoticed altogether. Whether one has cats, dogs, birds, rodents, or other animals, the presence of urine in a residential setting can cause the same irritation to humans as that of an open container of ammonia. Symptoms may include a burning sensation in the eyes, nose, and throat, along with coughing and allergy symptoms. In addition, pet urine odors can worsen the symptoms of asthma and other respiratory problems.

How to Eliminate Pet Urine Odor

In very extreme situations, carpets, carpet padding, upholstery may need to be replaced. In cases of animal hoarding or neglect, even the subfloor may need to be replaced. Most of the time, pet urine odor problems can be resolved with two basic steps. First, identify and eliminate the cause of the problem (while keeping the pet), and second, treat the affected areas. Let’s take a closer look at each step.

Identify and Eliminate the Cause of the Problem

Pets have accidents for various reasons, including improper training, urinary tract problems, and stress or excitement. Consult with your veterinarian or an animal behavior specialist, if needed. Once you are sure that the cause of the problem is resolved, you can then treat the affected areas.

If your pet continues to urinate on the carpet, then the only way to eliminate the pet urine odor problem will be to replace your flooring. Nonporous flooring will not hide or absorb pet accidents. As long as pet accidents are thoroughly cleaned as soon as they happen, then there should be no problem with lingering pet urine odor.

Treat the Affected Areas

Note: Do not use carpet powders and air fresheners that mask pet urine odor. Do not use baking soda, because although it may help neutralize odors and clean the carpet, it leaves an abrasive residue that can damage carpet fibers.

If you are treating the pet urine odor yourself, follow these steps.

  • Identify the contaminated areas. If trouble spots are not obvious, purchase a UV light, black out the windows or wait until evening, and then examine your carpet under the UV light. Urine-affected areas will glow yellow or green.
  • Thoroughly vacuum the carpet, if it is dry. When urine dries, moisture evaporates and salt crystals are left behind. Vacuuming will remove some of that solidified material from the carpet fibers.
  • Use a digestive enzyme on the spot. Digestive enzymes can be purchased at your local pet supply store. This will neutralize the odor using beneficial bacteria that break down organic matter.
    Clean the spot. Select a spot cleaner that is appropriate for your type of carpet by comparing details from the carpet manufacturers information with the spot cleaner product label. Follow the directions on the label precisely. Use the appropriate amount of cleaner, because too little can be ineffective and too much can leave a film that attracts and traps dirt and contaminants.
  • Use a clean, dry white towel to blot up any excess moisture. Let the carpet dry thoroughly and vacuum once more to fluff up the carpet fibers.

The easiest and best way to treat affected areas is to schedule services with us. Your professional carpet cleaning technicians have the knowledge, tools, and experience to locate and treat problem areas. When you contact us, be sure to mention the pet urine odor problem. Your technician can examine your carpeting and, if possible, resolve the problem. Be aware that replacing portions of carpet padding may be necessary, depending on the severity of the problem.

This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Porcelain Slab

The Scoop on Large-Format Porcelain Slabs

Posted on by Surface Care PROS Support

The Scoop on Large-Format Porcelain Slabs

The large-format porcelain slab market continues to gain popularity due to advances in technology, which are increasing their functional benefits, beauty, and broad application possibilities. You may have questions about this material. How big are large-format porcelain slabs? How much do they cost? Where can large-format porcelain slabs be installed? What are the design possibilities? Let’s take a closer look.

Large-Format Porcelain Slab Essentials

Large-format porcelain slabs, formerly known as gauged porcelain tile panels, are huge pieces of tile that are only 6-12mm in thickness and measure about 10′ x 5′ in size. Porcelain surfaces are low maintenance, stain resistant, and do not need to be sealed. Even though large-format porcelain slabs look remarkably like natural stone, the average price range, $5 – $18 per square foot, is less than most stone.

What You Need to Know About Through-Body Veining

Veining, or the beautifully organic lines that meander across and through natural stone, is a popular natural stone slab feature. Porcelain, unlike natural stone, is man-made. With most large-format porcelain slabs, the veining is printed on the surface. The problem is that when fabricators and installers cut the slabs, the unsightly, unfinished insides of the porcelain are revealed. If you were to ask a knowledgable fabricator or installer about this problem, they would tell you that it impacts the entire installation process, from sinks and edges to corners and seams. Another problem is that this material, if damaged, can be very difficult or even impossible to repair and restore. Fortunately, new technologies have produced porcelain with veining that is not just on the surface, but throughout the body of the material. This new development expands design possibilities, simplifies the installation process, and facilitates possibilities for repair and restoration. Unfortunately, porcelain with through-body veining is not yet widely available.

Design and Applications Possibilities

Unlike natural stone, where there can be variation in neighboring slabs, large-format porcelain slabs can be truly identical. When two pieces are placed next to each other in a design scheme called bookmatching, they form a symmetrical, mirror-like pattern that resembles an open book. Four slabs can be aligned in an X pattern called quadmatching or a diamond pattern called diamond matching.

Large-format porcelain slabs have fewer grout lines, making them ideal for food prep and especially appropriate for applications in wet areas, such as shower walls, bathroom vanities, walls surrounding baths or hot tubs, kitchen countertops, backsplashes, water features, seat walls, and more. The application possibilities for large-format porcelain slabs are nearly endless, including floors, walls, bar tops, table tops, and fireplace surrounds. Porcelain holds its own against the elements, making it ideal for outdoor kitchens and other exterior applications. As previously mentioned, new technologies open up previously impossible design opportunities. For example, through-body veining allows for more edge and sink options. Lightweight gauged materials and improvements in mortar technology mean large-format porcelain slabs can be used for building facades.

The Importance of Hiring Skilled Fabricators and Installers

Did you know that if an installer is off by just 3/8 of an inch that your entire slab could crack? The importance of working with highly skilled professionals cannot be understated.

In some ways, large-format porcelain slabs are easier to install than thick natural stone slabs. They are lightweight and easier to transport and handle, despite their size. Lippage (unevenly placed tiles) and misalignment are less likely to occur with thinner slabs. However, installation of this material requires incredible planning and precision. As surface materials advance in technology, so do the tools and methods used to install them.

We always use the most appropriate specialized equipment and the best installation techniques required for a safe and successful installation.

Remove Calcium Deposits in the Shower

How to Remove Shower Calcium Deposits

Posted on by Surface Care PROS Support

How to Remove Shower Calcium Deposits

Do you have a white film or scaly buildup on your tile or stone shower? This is caused by calcium deposits, which can be difficult to remove. Here are some DIY solutions you can try yourself before you reach out for professional services.

Why Calcium Deposits Are Usually Found in Showers

Water with a high mineral content can deposit calcium carbonate on your natural stone or tile surfaces. Over time, these deposits build up.

Natural stone and tile applications that get no or minimal water exposure rarely ever get calcium deposits. Examples include entryway walls, fireplace surrounds, damp-mopped floors, and areas of countertops that get little use. However, surfaces that are constantly being wiped may slowly, over a long period of time, become cloudy looking with calcium deposits. Examples include high-use countertop areas (usually near sinks), commercial bar tops, and restaurant table tops.

Bathroom showers are the major problem area for calcium deposits. Every time someone showers, the surfaces are exposed to an average of two gallons of water per minute!

Be Careful

The challenge in removing calcium deposits is avoiding damage to the surface. If you have porcelain or ceramic tile, you can use harsher cleaners than those that can be used on natural stone. You might be able to get away with using mildly acidic cleaners on silicate-based stones, such as granite, sandstone, slate, and quartzite, but if you have calcium-based natural stone, your options are limited. Polished stone may be more likely to require professional refinishing after DIY calcium deposit removal methods than honed stone.

Solutions to Remove Calcium Deposits

The following are DIY suggestions for removing calcium deposits from your natural stone or tile surfaces. WARNING: As alluded to previously, some DIY methods can cause dullness or etch damage to natural stone. You may want to reach out to your stone restoration technician before proceeding.

  1. Use a plastic putty knife to scrape off the excess buildup. Be sure not to use a metal knife, as it can leave marks or scratches.
  2. Saturate the surface with the appropriate cleaner. Allow enough dwell time to soften the buildup. Clean using a white cloth or soft nylon brush.
  3. For tile or stone, rinse thoroughly to remove any cleaning residue. For stone, especially if you used sulfamic acid, follow up with a pH-neutral cleaner prior to the final rinse.

Porcelain or Ceramic Tile

The glazed finish on porcelain and ceramic tiles cannot be ruined with most acidic cleaners, such as lemon juice, white vinegar, soap film remover, and other acid-based cleaners. The exception is hydrofluoric acid. Avoid heavy duty acids, such as HCL and CLR, which pose numerous health risks. If necessary, you may also use a green scrubbing pad on porcelain or ceramic.

Marble and Other Calcium-Based Stone

Stone-safe, pH-neutral cleaners can be used on both polished and honed natural stone. Do not use a green scrubbing pad on polished stone. You might be able to get away with using it on stone with a honed finish, but do so at your own risk knowing that some honed finishes have a higher polish than others. If the desired results are not achieved, use a heavy-duty, non-acidic soap film remover.

Granite and Other Silicate-Based Stone

For granite and other silicate-based stone, use the same methods as mentioned above for marble and other calcium-based stone. If the desired results are not achieved, use sulfamic acid (not to be confused with sulfuric acid), available at home improvement centers.

Professional Cleaning and Restoration May Be Necessary

DIY methods are valuable for regular cleaning and in some cases, more intensive cleaning, but professional stone and tile services achieve dramatic results that cannot be achieved using DIY methods. If you choose to try DIY methods first, feel free to contact us for specific product recommendations. If DIY methods fail to produce the desired results or leave your stone looking dull, we are here for you. Perhaps reading this article makes you realize you have better things to do than spending hours cleaning your shower. Contact us if you would like to schedule professional calcium buildup removal services.

quartz-quartzite

QUARTZITE. QUARTZ. WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?

Posted on by Surface Care PROS Support

Pinterest, Houzz, magazines, and other kitchen and bath design resources recommend both quartzite and quartz for kitchen countertops, floors, walls, backsplashes, and more. Sometimes people confuse the two materials, given their similar names and appearances, but they are actually very different.

Quartzite

Quartzite is a natural stone. Sandstone that is subjected to heat and pressure forms quartzite. Quartzite’s appearance can be veined like marble, have more solid coloring, look like crushed crystals, or a combination of these features. On the Mohs scale of hardness, quartzite is usually around a seven or eight out of ten, which means it is harder than glass.

Quartzite is also very durable, but subject to staining or etching like most natural stones. Since quartzite is porous, sealing it can help inhibit staining, but sealers cannot prevent etching. There are new solutions now available on the market for quartzite countertop etch protection. Maintenance requirements include frequent cleaning with a stone-safe, pH-neutral cleaner and periodic professional restoration services, which may include honing, polishing, cleaning, and re-sealing.

Quartz

Quartz is a mineral, and in its powdered form, it is the main ingredient for the engineered stone also called quartz. With patterns mimicking marble and other natural stone, quartz requires less maintenance than natural stone. Quartz does not require sealer, because it is not porous, but this doesn’t necessarily mean it is impervious to damage. The good news is that quartz does not damage easily. The bad news is that although quartz is harder to damage than quartzite, once it is damaged, it is more problematic to restore because it is made with colored resin.

Feel free to contact us with specific questions about quartzite, quartz, or other materials.

This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

filtration-soiling

Filtration Soiling

Posted on by Surface Care PROS Support

Filtration Soiling

Have you ever noticed dark, dirty areas along the edges of your carpet? This is a common problem known as filtration soiling.

What Causes Filtration Soiling?

The carpet in your residence or business acts as an air filtering mechanism, catching pollutants from the environment such as dirt, dust, smoke, pet fur, cooking residues, and ash from fireplaces. Filtration soiling occurs as a result of this debris collecting and settling along carpet edges.

In buildings that have convector systems instead of air ducts, the soil filtration is a result of air drafts. For example, elevators moving up and down, cause air drafts throughout the building. The same is true for windows or anywhere air is flowing.

So How Do I Prevent It?

Prevention is often better than the cure, so here are some tips to help minimize the problem.

Clean Air Ducts

For starters, if your residence or business has air ducts, keep them clear of dust and debris. Cleaning your air ducts at least once a year can minimize unwanted substances from being spread throughout the space.

Change Filters Regularly

The general rule is to clean or change your filter every two to three months, depending on how often you run your heat and air conditioner. Some filters are reusable; others need to be replaced.  It’s a good investment to buy a high quality filter and check the instruction manual on the longevity. The more regularly you clean or change the filters, the lower your chances of air pollutants escaping the filters and spreading through the air ducts.

Eliminate the Causes
  • Place doormats at every entrance to minimize any dirt tracking from outside.
  • For your residence, ask family members and guests to smoke outside. If you own a business or residential complex, consider investing in an air door or air curtain. This device prevents smoke and other contaminants from entering the building. In addition, installing double doors at entrances will minimize air drafts.
  • Vacuum and dust on a regular basis to keep your home as pollutant-free as possible.

We Can Help

If you are experiencing filtration soiling, we can help. Give us a call.

 

Candle Soot on Carpet

Candles, Incense, and Unsightly Carpets

Posted on by Surface Care PROS Support

Candles, Incense, and Unsightly Carpets

Candles and incense create a warm, inviting atmosphere and scents associated with pleasant memories and feelings, but some candles and incense can be a real problem in homes or businesses, especially those with carpeting. Harmful effects include diminished indoor air quality and an unsightly graphite film on carpeting that can be notoriously difficult to remove. Read on to learn more about these problems and discover healthier, cleaner ways to create the ambiance you want.

Harmful Effects of Candles and Incense

According to the Environmental Protection Agency,

The estimated total sales of candles in 1999 varied between $968 million and $2.3 billion, while imports were $486 million. The U.S. imports and exports of incense in 1999 were $12.4 and 4.6 million, respectively. The scientific literature review gathered information regarding the emission of various contaminants generated when burning candles and incense, as well as the potential health effects associated with exposure to these contaminants. Burning candles and incense can be sources of particulate matter. Burning candles with lead-core wicks may result in indoor air concentration of lead above EPA-recommended thresholds. Exposure to incense smoke has been linked with several illnesses, and certain brands of incense also contain chemicals suspected of causing skin irritation.

Heavily scented oil candles and ordinary incense create graphite pollution, a type of indoor air contamination that can be compared to cigarette smoke. These products may mask odor, but they contain cancer-causing chemicals associated with migraines and sinus problems. They can trigger symptoms in people with COPD and other breathing-related conditions.

Carpeting and upholstery are highly absorbent. The soot left behind by certain candles and incense can infiltrate the fibers of your carpets, rugs, and upholstered furniture. It can cause a carpet problem called filtration soiling, that is, a graphite film that creates dark, dirty areas along the edges of carpet and around HVAC vents. Once this problem develops, it can be difficult to resolve without damaging the carpet, even with professional carpet cleaning.

There’s a Better Way…

Your family, guests, employees, or patrons can enjoy soft, flickering candlelight and clean aromas without harmful health effects and negative consequences to your carpet and upholstery. Here’s how:

  • Do not use ordinary oil-coated incense with a bamboo core. This type of incense creates a lot of soot. Instead, use incense made with cosmetic-grade oil and no bamboo core.
  • Do not use paraffin-based candles. Paraffin is a harmful petroleum byproduct. Clean burning alternatives include candles made with soy wax, palm wax, or liquid wax. The best alternative, by far, is beeswax candles. They actually produce negative ions that, when burned, purify the air. Beeswax candles burn longer than other types of candles, too. You may also consider battery powered or rechargeable flameless candles.
  • Use candles without large wicks. Thick wicks produce heavy soot. Thin cotton or wood wicks produce the least amount of soot.
  • Use unscented or naturally scented candles. If you must use scented candles, look for brands that use 100% naturally-derived essential oils.
  • Vacuum often. This simple practice inhibits contaminants from settling and bonding into the fibers of interior textiles. The longer contaminants remain, the more likely they are to cause damage to carpet and upholstery dyes and fibers.
  • Clean air ducts once per year. This will minimize the spread of contaminants.
  • Change or clean air filters often. To lower chances of pollutants escaping your air filtration system, your air filters should be changed or cleaned every two to three months. Use high quality disposable or reusable air filters.
  • Clean and dust hard surfaces on a regular basis. This will help keep your space as pollutant free as possible, which can help prevent offputting odors.
  • Have your carpets and upholstery periodically professionally cleaned. As a general rule, your interior textiles should be cleaned once or twice per year. You may need to adjust the frequency depending on the level of traffic and use your fine surfaces get. Professional cleaning will help eliminate odors so you won’t feel the need to mask them.

With proper care and a few simple precautions, your space can remain fresh, clean, and inviting with or without candles and incense.

Hardest Stone Countertop

What Is the Hardest Stone Countertop Material?

Posted on by Surface Care PROS Support

What Is the Hardest Stone Countertop Material?

What is the hardest stone countertop material? This is a common question clients who are investing in countertops ask, because harder stones require less maintenance than softer stones. Read on to find out how stone hardness is measured, which stones are the hardest, and how to avoid damage that can happen regardless of hardness.

Mohs Scale

The simplest way to know the hardness of a countertop material is to reference the Mohs Scale, a scale of measurement that classifies mineral hardness and scratch resistance. This scale, which is rated from 1 to 10, with 10 being the hardest, determines what mineral is hard enough to cut or scratch softer materials. The ten minerals in the scale, from softest to hardest, are: talc, gypsum, calcite, fluorite, apatite, feldspar, quartz, topaz, corundum and diamond.

Hardness of Stone Countertop Materials

The hardness of a stone countertop can vary from one slab to the next, depending on its mineral content. For example, a slab of marble with high calcite content might be a 3 on the Mohs Scale, but another slab of marble cut from a different quarry with a lower calcite content might be a 5. Here are some common stone countertops and their typical hardnesses:

  • Soapstone, which is softer than marble, ranges from 1 to 2. Although it scratches easily, scratches can easily be sanded out.
  • Slate, a stone used as tabletops in chemistry labs, is from 2.5 to 4.
  • Marble, one of the softest yet most popular countertop materials, ranges from 3 to 5.
  • Limestone also ranges from 3 to 5.
  • Travertine is a popular natural stone used for floors, showers, fireplace surrounds and backsplashes. If travertine is used as a countertop material, the naturally occurring holes in the stone must be filled, finished smooth, and properly maintained for sanitary reasons. Travertine has a hardness of 4 to 5.
  • Quartz is an engineered stone often confused with quartzite, a natural stone. It is slightly softer than quartzite with a hardness of 7.
  • Quartzite ranges from 7 to 8.
  • Granite, composed mostly of quartz and feldspar, ranges from 6 to 8 in hardness and scratch resistance. Cutting boards are recommended for granite countertops, not to protect the stone, but to protect the knives!

How to Avoid Damage That Can Happen Regardless of Hardness

Countertops tend to get a lot of use and are exposed to potentially damaging substances. A common misconception is that if a stone is very hard, it is difficult or impossible to damage. Even the hardest stone countertop materials are not impervious to damage. Here are some tips to prevent stone countertop damage.

Prevent Stains

Porous natural stone may need to be sealed. Most natural stone has tiny holes that can absorb staining agents found in food, beverages, and other substances. Properly sealed countertops inhibit staining by keeping spills on the surface long enough for you to clean them up before they seep into the stone and turn into stains.

There is a simple test you can do to determine whether your countertops need to be sealed. Choose the most-used area of your countertop to do this test. Pour a small amount of water on the surface. Allow it to dwell for a few minutes before wiping it away. Is there a dark spot left behind? This demonstrates that your stone is absorbing liquid and should be sealed.

Any stone that needs to be sealed will also need to be re-sealed occasionally. Although it is possible to seal your own stone, we highly recommend having a professional stone restoration contractor perform this service to ensure proper coverage and avoid mistakes that can diminish the appearance of your stone.

Never Sit or Stand on Stone Countertops

Even highly supported stone countertops can crack or break due to unevenly distributed weight on weak points in the stone, such as a small crack or fissure. This is especially true of the sink area, one of the weakest points in your stone slab.

Use Stone-Safe Cleaning Products

For routine cleaning, always use a stone-safe, pH-neutral cleaner specifically formulated for use on natural stone. Acidic or abrasive cleaners can damage even the hardest stone. Other cleaners, such as dish soap, may not necessarily damage your stone, but they can leave behind a buildup that can make your stone look dull or discolored.

Protect Against UV Damage

Stones that contain organic components, such as marble, limestone, and travertine, can fade in the sun. Quartz intended for indoor use, as well as granite that has been treated with dyes or resins can fade with UV exposure. If possible, do not install countertops in areas that get full sun for a long time each day; otherwise, pull shades down during peak sunlight hours.

Avoid Scratches, Chips, and Other Damage

Use coasters under cups and glasses and put soaps and other products on trays. Use trivets under hot pots and pans, and never drag cookware across the countertop surface. Be careful with heavy objects, such as cast iron cookware. If a heavy object is dropped on stone, it can cause a chip or crack.

For more tips and resources to help you care for your new countertops, download our free Stone and Tile Care Guide and use our Stain Management App.