Category: Articles

Demystifying Carpet Cleaning Walk-Throughs

Before and after carpet cleaning services, our technicians do a walk-through, that is slowly and purposefully walking through your home or business, asking questions, and sometimes stopping to measure and jot down technical notes on a clipboard or mobile device. This article demystifies the walk through process, letting you know what to expect and why.

Why did you contact us?

On the surface, this may seem like a no-brainer. You want to have your carpets cleaned, because, obviously, carpets get dirty. Our technicians have good reasons for asking this question, especially if you are a new client. Maybe your previous carpet cleaning company did not meet your expectations. Maybe your carpet warranty only remains valid if you have your carpets professionally cleaned. Knowing what motivates our clients to schedule services helps us customize our services to best suit your needs.

Sometimes technicians may ask this question of existing clients, especially if carpets are cleaned at periodic intervals and it has not been that long since the previous visit. If there are odor problems, your carpet is seeing more traffic than normal, or you have other concerns that bring us to your home or business more frequently, again, we may be able to customize our services to best suit your needs. Knowing why you reached out to us gives us important clues about the condition of your carpet.

What are we looking for?

• Electric. Home and business owners are usually quick to point out spots, spills, and problem areas. Any information that clients provide is helpful, and we appreciate that. However, there are other things your technician considers during the walk through. For example, sometimes electrical outlets are already being utilized or are not exposed because of furniture. Knowing where to plug in ahead of time helps us protect your belongings.
• Protection. Speaking of belongings, we also make note of furnishings, cabinets, the flooring adjacent to our work area, window treatments, and other care considerations. We like to know ahead of time what level of protection will be required so that we clean your carpets and leave everything else untouched.
• Lighting. We pay attention to whether there is adequate lighting and plan accordingly by either bringing additional lighting or showing up during a time when the natural light is best. This is especially important for jobs involving a lot of spot removal.
• Space. We always use extreme care to avoid damage to walls, doorways, furniture, and other surfaces surrounding our work area. Making note of narrow hallways, aisles, and tight spaces enables us to plan our cleaning route so that our equipment stays well clear of your valuable property. We also measure, because we want to get accurate square footage to make sure you get fair and competitive pricing.
• Manufacturer’s guidelines. Certain types of carpet have very specific care instructions provided by the manufacturer. Our technicians are highly trained and skilled at inspecting and identifying carpet types and selecting the most appropriate cleaning solutions and methods for your carpet fiber. If there are any questions about your particular carpet, we may ask you to provide the manufacturer info.

We may ask about your habits.

Our technicians may ask questions about your eating, drinking, and cleaning habits. We promise we are not trying to be nosey! These questions are completely normal and play an important part of our decision making process as we customize your carpet cleaning plan. For example, if you use hair spray near an area with carpet, we may need to pretreat this area in order to completely remove stubborn residues. We may also offer suggestions on how to avoid premature wear and keep your carpet looking fresh and smelling clean between professional cleanings.

We may need to clarify expectations.

During the walk through, we will point out any areas of concern, for example, shedding, buckling, fading, and provide the opportunity for clients to ask questions. There are some problems with carpet that cannot be completely resolved with professional carpet cleaning. The walk through is when both technicians and clients can ask questions and clarify expectations. Our goal is to give an honest evaluation of your carpet and what you can expect us to accomplish, and then provide the highest quality services to achieve the best possible results. Below are details about the most common concerns.

• Spots and Stains. Most spots from pet accidents or food and drink spills can be removed if they are treated right away. Please refer to our free, downloadable Carpet and Interior Textiles Care Guide for more information. If you are unable to remove a spot, contact us right away so we can tend to it before it becomes a permanent stain. Sometimes clients are busy or don’t notice a spot right away, though. Although professional carpet cleaning can minimize the appearance of permanent stains, permanent stains are called permanent for a reason. For example, if you spill bleach on a dark carpet, it removes the dye in the carpet. Cleaning the carpet will not replace the dye.
• Traffic Patterns. Over time, traffic patterns develop in carpet, because the fibers of the carpet can become bent or broken when abrasive materials on the bottoms of shoes cut into carpet fibers. Cleaning will help lift the carpet pile and minimize the appearance of traffic patterns, but it will not repair damaged carpet fibers or replace missing carpet fibers.

When we take the time to walk through your home or business, before and after carpet cleaning, we are paying close attention to how we may best serve you and meet your needs and making sure you know exactly what to expect from us.

Limestone Selection and Care

The castle-like, serene palette limestone offers makes it a popular choice for homeowners in renovation projects or new construction. This article provides valuable information for anyone considering having limestone installed, as well as anyone with an existing installation. Read on to learn where limestone works best, why limestone is not suitable for wet areas, and how to care for limestone.

Limestone: Suitable for Many Applications

Limestone is an organic sedimentary rock that forms from the accumulation of shell, coral, algal, and fecal debris — a stone of choice for many applications such as interior flooring or walls, fireplace surrounds, backsplashes, in living rooms and recreation rooms, and more. There are many different types of limestone. One of the most popular is travertine, which is often used in exterior installations, such as pool decks or hot tub surrounds.

Most types of limestone can safely be used anywhere that it will not be exposed to excessive amounts of water. Certain types of limestone can be used for kitchen countertops or bathroom vanities, but like almost any natural stone, limestone is susceptible to etching, scratching, and staining. With proper care and periodic professional attention, it can stay looking great indefinitely. Reputable suppliers, fabricators, and installers know, because of positive feedback from owners, where various types of limestone have been installed with great success.

About Limestone in Wet Areas

Stone and tile professionals have noticed problems with limestone installations in showers and other areas that get excessive water exposure, such as staining and deterioration, or in some cases, complete disintegration of the stone. Unfortunately, the blame for these problems is often misplaced on suppliers, fabricators, or installers, even though the material is sound and has been installed within industry guidelines.

Here are a few reasons why:

1. Iron. Limestone contains iron and other minerals that can oxidize and cause stains that worsen over time. Since iron is part of the mineral makeup of the stone, these stains can be impossible to remove.
2. Porosity. Limestone, even when sealed, is typically very porous. Water enters the pores of the stone and reacts with the setting bed, which contains salts. When the limestone dries, the salts recrystallize, causing pressure that can result in the stone spalling, that is, peeling, flaking, or breaking on the surface of the stone. In steam showers, water vapors can enter very tiny pores that liquid water cannot. The steam then condenses in the pores causing the stone to deteriorate.
3. Solubility. Limestone contains water-soluble materials, such as calcium carbonate and organic matter. When the water-soluble materials in limestone are constantly exposed to water, the stone can dissolve or disintegrate.

The Natural Stone Institute, the leading trade association in the industry, has a system for designating the soundness of a stone. It recommends that only class A and B stones be used in interior wet areas. Limestone falls into a C class, at best. Many stone types fall into the D classification. For more info on this classification system go to The Natural Stone Institutes website at https://www.naturalstoneinstitute.org/.

In a nutshell, it is not a good idea to use limestone in wet areas.

Let’s Look at Water

One may question the idea that limestone is suitable for areas that do not get excessive water exposure given the fact that limestone is often used for exterior installations without having any issues. This is true, but there is a big difference between the amount of water used in a bathroom shower and the amount of rain on an exterior installation. A bathroom shower, on average, produces over 8,000 inches of water per year. To put this in perspective, the rainiest area on earth is in China, which has 321 inches of rain per year. A shower has over 26 times that amount. That is a lot of water!

Don’t Replace Your Limestone!

If your limestone is already installed and you are having problems, don’t replace it! Most limestone problems can be resolved with professional stone restoration and repair. For example, if your limestone has a highly polished finish, you may opt to switch to a honed finish, which requires less maintenance. Limestone can be professionally cleaned for a fresh, clean look, and sealed to inhibit staining. Etches, scratches, and dullness can be virtually erased with professional honing and polishing. For regular day-to-day care, use a stone-safe, neutral cleaner, and follow the care instructions in our free, downloadable Stone and Tile Care Guide. Contact us for answers to your limestone questions and specific recommendations for caring for your limestone.

How to Remove Chewing Gum from Carpet

For people who love soft, clean carpets and rugs, removing clingy, sticky chewing gum may seem like a nightmarish and impossible task. Fortunately, in most cases, getting gum out of carpet fibers can be easier than one might imagine. Here are a few methods to try.

Note: It is important to get the gum off of the carpet as soon as possible, otherwise it could be harder to remove later.

Warning: Always test products and cleaning methods in an inconspicuous area first, to see whether they will damage or remove dye from your carpet.

Freeze It

The ice and spoon method is the most common way to remove gum from carpet. Alternatively, if you do an online search for “gum freeze spray” there are many products that you can use instead of ice. Here’s how.

What You’ll Need

• Ice or gum freeze spray (specifically marked safe for carpets on the label)
• Spoon or dull utensil
• Carpet-safe cleaner (specifically marked safe for carpets on the label)
• White cloth or paper towels

Directions

1. Place a few ice cubes directly onto gum stain. Allow them to sit long enough to freeze and harden the gum. Or, spray the gum with gum freeze spray until it becomes hard and brittle.
2. Use a utensil with a dull edge such as a spoon or butter knife to pop the frozen pieces off, or if it doesn’t come off all at once, to remove as much as possible.
3. Repeat steps one and two, as needed, until most of the gum is removed.
4. Test carpet-safe cleaner in an inconspicuous area.
5. Spray the affected area.
6. Gently rub the area with a dry, clean, white cloth or paper towels.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6, as needed.

Rubbing Alcohol or Methyl Salicylate

Rubbing alcohol breaks down the polymers in chewing gum. Methyl Salicylate, aka, wintergreen oil, is actually an ingredient in chewing gum. It can loosen gum from carpet fibers.

What You’ll Need

• Rubbing alcohol or methyl salicylate
• White cloth or paper towels

Directions

1. Apply a few drops of rubbing alcohol or methyl salicylate to the affected area.
2. Allow the solution to remain for a few minutes.
3. Remove the solution with a dry, clean, white cloth or paper towels.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3, as needed.

WD-40 and Dish Soap

An alternative method, if neither of the above methods have proven successful, involves WD-40 and dish soap. The WD-40 loosens the gum from the carpet fibers. The dish soap gets the WD-40 out of your carpet once all the gum is removed.

What You’ll Need

• WD-40
• Soft bristle brush
• White cloth or paper towels
• Sponge
• Dish soap
• Warm water

Directions

1. Apply a generous amount of WD-40 to the affected area.
2. Allow the solution to remain for a few minutes.
3. Use a soft bristle brush to remove the gum from the carpet fibers.
4. Wipe the affected area with a dry, clean, white cloth or paper towels.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 5, as needed.
6. Once all the gum is removed, remove the WD-40 using a clean, white cloth and warm soap water.
7. Finish up by cleaning the area with a clean, white cloth and warm water (no soap). This last step is to remove any soap residue, which could attract dirt.
8. If the area is too wet to quickly air dry, use clean, dry, white cloth or paper towels to soak up excess moisture.

We’re Here to Help

Most of the time, people are able to remove gum from carpet using DIY methods, but for certain types of carpet, particularly clingy gum, or gum that has been on the carpet for a while, these methods may not work. Though you may be tempted to pry out the gum or scrub it out with harsh chemicals, this can result in damage to your carpet or rug fibers, perhaps even spreading the gum to a wider area. Instead, give us a call. With our professional cleaning solutions and specialized equipment, we have great success getting gum out of carpet.

Ancient and Modern Stone Fabrication

When you compare the stone fabrication that is possible today with what was accomplished by ancient stone fabricators, there is not a great difference in the quality of the work. Yet, these ancient craftsmen were able to accomplish excellent work without the tools available to stone fabricators today. Today, stone fabrication is making great advances that will let you have just about any design you have in mind. Modern stone cutting technology, using computers, allows you to be innovative in your design and confident that the finished product will meet your exact specifications. How did the ancients accomplish the excellent quality of work without modern technology?

The Mohs Scale

In order to understand the significance of the differences between ancient and modern fabrication, we have to look at the Mohs Scale, a scale of measurement that classifies mineral hardness. There are ten minerals in the Mohs scale rated from one to ten, with ten being the hardest. They are: talc, gypsum, calcite, fluorite, apatite, feldspar, quartz, topaz, corundum and diamond. This scale is a measurement of scratch resistance. In other words, it determines which mineral is hard enough to cut softer materials. The hardest of these minerals is diamond.

Ancient Stone Cutting Tools

If you visit Egypt, Peru, or other places that have ancient sites with stone work, you will find that their structures, carvings, and stone implements are made with great precision and reveal that those who made them were very skilled craftsmen. The ancient fabricators did not have computers or sophisticated tools to help them cut stone with exactness. It is common knowledge that any tool used should have a greater hardness than the stone that is being cut and shaped. What tools were available to them? The tools that have been found would not have been capable of cutting and shaping the stone with such exactness and smoothness, yet the evidence of their work still stands today. The bottom line is that we just don’t know what tools or technology the ancients used.

The Missing Link

This poses the question, “How did they do such quality work?” This is still a mystery that architects, archeologists, and stone cutting experts have to solve. Somehow, these ancient architects and craftsmen were able to achieve amazing results without our modern technology. If hand tools were used, there would have been patterns in the stone providing evidence of the features of the tool. When the stones are examined, they are smooth and show no tool patterns. What equipment did they use to accomplish comparable results? This is still a mystery. There are many theories, but they remain theories. The tools found, from the time of the construction of large structures and the fine craftsmanship of objects left behind were basic tools that would not be capable of producing the results of the work found. There has been no evidence found to date of more sophisticated equipment. Archeologists are still looking for the missing link.

Modern Stone Cutting

Today’s technology is very advanced, giving fabricators the capability to precisely cut stone to your specific needs. Any stone design you want, whether it be countertops, mantles, or special unique shapes, can be achieved. Maybe someday the mystery of how the ancients fabricated stone will be resolved. While researchers are still looking, you can rest assured that we have the most appropriate, high-tech equipment to meet your needs. Modern stone fabrication is no mystery to us!

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This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Removing Urine Stains and Odors from Stone

Urine accidents on natural stone in homes or businesses can cause staining and odor problems. Maybe your new puppy made a mess on your marble floor. Perhaps in front of the urinals in a business restroom the granite is stained and smells of urine. Whether it’s your puppy, poor aim, or some other cause, there are ways to remove these stains and odors. Here are some instructions for urine stain removal, and if odors linger after stain removal, we’ve also included instructions for urine odor removal.

The Chemistry of Urine

Urine is unique in that it is a substance that comes out of the body as an acid, and when it starts to dry, it becomes an alkaline crystal, which absorbs moisture. In the case of urine accidents, stains can grow as these crystals absorb moisture. If the stone is a polished marble or limestone, it can become etched due to the initial acid reaction, but it can also be etched from the strong alkali. If this is the case, the stone may need to be repolished.

Removing Natural Stone Urine Stains

Removing urine stains can be tricky and timing is everything. The quicker you can get to the stain the easier it will be to remove.

As soon as you can, blot the urine up with some dry paper towels. Do not wipe, since this will only spread the stain. Clean the stain with some dish soap and water. Mix about one teaspoon of dish soap in a gallon of water. Apply this solution to the wet area and allow it to sit for a minute or two. Blot the solution up and rinse with clean water. If there is still a stain, then you will need to apply a poultice.

Poultice To Remove Urine Stain

A poultice is a mixture you will create and apply to break down and draw out the stain from the pores of the stone.

What You’ll Need

• Flour (use only white flour) or Diatomaceous Earth
• Hydrogen Peroxide 20 Volume (available at most beauty supply stores or order on-line)
• Plastic wrap (Saran Wrap or equivalent)
• Plastic putty knife
• Low contact painters’ tape
• Mixing bowl or cup
• Plastic or wooden spoon
• Paper towels or a soft white cloth

Instructions

1. Wet the stained area with distilled water. Pre-wetting fills the pores of the stone with water and will isolate the stain and accelerate the removal by the chemical.
2. Prepare the poultice. Take a small amount of flour and pour the peroxide into the flour and stir until you reach a creamy consistency.
3. When you apply the poultice to the stain, be careful not to spill any on the non-stained areas. Apply the poultice approximately 1/4-inch thick and overlapping the stain area by about one inch.
4. Cover the poultice with plastic. Use low contact painters’ tape to secure the plastic down and seal the edges. Do not use other types of tape, because the adhesive can damage the stone. It also helps to poke several small holes in the plastic so that the powder will dry out. Failure to do this may result in the poultice staying wet.
5. Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is an especially important step. The drying of the poultice is what pulls the stain from the stone into the poultice material. If the poultice is not allowed to dry, the stain may not be removed. Drying usually takes from 24 to 48 hours.
6. Remove the poultice with a plastic putty knife. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with paper towels or a soft white cloth. If the stain is not removed, apply the poultice again. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.

Removing Natural Stone Urine Odors

Once the stain is removed, the urine smell may still be present. The nasty smell you may experience is the result of bacteria using the urine as a food source. So, to eliminate the odor, you need to kill the bacteria. Here is how to neutralize the odor:

There are numerous products on the market designed for eliminating carpet odors. These same products can be used for stone. Make sure the product is enzymatic. Many products will only mask the odor. Since you want to eliminate the odor, an enzymatic product is necessary.

What You’ll Need

• Enzymatic carpet cleaner
• Plastic wrap (Saran Wrap or equivalent)
• Paper towels or a soft white cloth

Instructions

1. Spray the affected surface liberally with the cleaner using a pump sprayer or spray bottle.
2. Cover with plastic for 1 to 2 hours to slow the evaporation rate and allow time for the first application to soak deeply into the stone.
3. Note that as the first application of cleaner goes to work, the urine odor may intensify at first. This is typical with old or heavy urine deposits and indicates that the urine is being loosened and is rising to the surface.
4. Remove the plastic and blot the floor dry with paper towels or soft white cloths. Expect the blotting towels or cloths to be colored yellow and smell heavily of urine. Dispose of the soiled towels or cloths.
5. Reapply the cleaner. Allow to dry 1 to 2 hours. (In humid climates lacking AC, drying may take longer.)
6. Continue to reapply as needed, with 1 to 2 hours drying time between applications or until the odor is removed.

The above processes are time-consuming but will be well worth the effort if done properly.

Urine Etch Damage on Natural Stone

It is possible in the case of polished marble or limestone that discoloration may persist despite your stain removal procedures. If the stone looks dull or has texture when you run your finger across the surface, then etching may have occurred. Sometimes, minor etch damage on stone with a polished finish can be removed using a marble polishing compound. For other finishes or deep etch damage, professional honing and polishing will be necessary. Your stone and tile restoration technician, who has the expertise to deal with this problem and can determine what needs to be done in your particular situation. Feel free to contact us for further guidance.

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This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Is My Stone Really Stained?

Sometimes when we get calls from customers regarding a stain on their stone, it is not uncommon to find that the stain is not a stain at all. Here are some examples of common stone problems that look like stains but are not actually stains and what can be done to resolve the issues.

Acid Etching

Almost all polished marble will become discolored and dull when it comes in contact with acids. Acids can be found in orange juice, lemons, soft drinks, foods, household and commercial cleaners, bathroom cleaners, and the list goes on and on. This dulling effect caused by acids coming in contact with the calcium in the stone is a condition known as etching. This can also occur on highly polished concrete and some tile surfaces.

To remove an etch from polished marble, re-polishing will be required. If the etching is minor and limited to a small area, you can use a quality marble polishing compound. If the etching is severe, it will need to be professionally honed and re-polished.

Moisture / Wet Stone on Countertops

Another common problem mistaken as staining is moisture that has absorbed into the stone. This occurs when a porous stone is not adequately sealed. When this happens, the stone will appear darker. (Think about what happens to a pair of jeans when they get wet. The material looks darker until it dries.)

If you suspect the problem is wet stone, give it time to completely dry or take a hair dryer to the suspected wet area and see if the area lightens. Caution: Do not apply too much heat, especially to granite, because it may cause the crystals in the stone to expand and spall, or the stone to crack.

When a stone absorbs moisture, this indicates that the stone needs to be sealed. Be sure to have the stone properly sealed.

Moisture / Wet Stone on Floors

Stone floors can also show moisture spots. This is especially true when stone floors are newly installed. The setting bed is usually very wet. The water migrates to the surface to escape and evaporates. This drying process can take a long time, depending on the temperature, humidity and air flow. Certain granites can take months to dry. Moisture can appear uniformly throughout the entire surface, or it can be blotchy.

Water Spots

Another common problem associated with staining is the deposits of water spots and water rings. These are the rings left behind from a glass that can appear on marble or other natural stone tables and countertops. Water spots are caused by slightly acidic liquids running down the sides of the glass and etching the marble.

Water spots can also be caused by chemicals in the liquid that deposit minerals on the stone. These are sometimes referred to as hard water spots. If the liquid contains calcium or other minerals, it will leave a spot on the surface in the shape of the bottom of the glass. The mineral deposits are the same type that appear in an automatic dishwasher or a glass shower door. These rings and spots are usually not stains and cannot be removed with stain-removing chemicals and poultices. Professional refinishing and re-polishing will probably be necessary.

Efflorescence

Efflorescence appears as a white powdery dust on the surface of the material. If you wipe your hand across a surface with efflorescence, you will pick up a light powdery residue. Efflorescence is simply a deposit of minerals on the surface. These minerals usually come from the setting bed or from the stone or concrete itself. When the material becomes wet during installation or afterward, the water dissolves some of the minerals in the setting bed and carries them to the surface. When the water evaporates, the minerals are left behind in the form of a powder.

If you are having issues with efflorescence, we can help.

These are the most common “stain” conditions that are not stains. Feel free to contact us with questions.

If you do have a true stain, please refer to our interactive Stain Removal Guide which shows you how to treat virtually any kind of true stain.

As always, let us know how we can help with any stone problem you are having.

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This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

What is the best countertop for your kitchen?

Installing new countertops comes with many questions, and even more choices when it comes to aesthetics. The best way to tackle the task of countertop selection is to eliminate as much uncertainty as possible. Here are some tips to help you make the most appropriate selection.

Know Your Renovation Strategy

Step one is to decide on the type of renovation taking place. If you’re committing to a full renovation—or if your kitchen or bathroom is being built from scratch—you’ll have the option to customize everything to fit your style and budget. If this is the case, make sure to pick your countertop first. The countertop is the center of focus for a kitchen or bathroom, so building your area around this piece is a fundamental interior design strategy. But if you’re only partially renovating—if you‘re changing just one or two things about your kitchen—don’t worry, your choices are still broad and highly customizable.

Know Your Countertop Budget

The next major step is considering your budget. When you know how much you can spend, you know what options to rule out. Marble makes you think luxury, but for your wallet’s sake, granite, quartz, and soapstone can give the exact same sense of exceptionality without breaking the bank. If your choice of countertop is set in stone, remember that you can always paint your cabinets and trim to compliment the countertop finish and color.

If you find that you haven’t quite narrowed your options to a single choice, remember that you can always choose more than one stone. Many experts say granite is a one-type-fits-all natural stone. With a variety of colors, wonderful durability, and multiple ways to finish the surface, settling on granite isn’t a decision you would regret.

Know Your Countertop Style

This brings us to the next step in the design choice, forming the room around your home. Start with a primary and a secondary color based around your home’s aesthetic theme. If you have a rustic country home, go for warm and neutral colors. Beveled and ogee countertop edges work well with these kinds of homes. If you have a modern or minimalist style home, choose solid colors or monochromatic shades. Choose eased or bullnose edges for your countertops with a style like this.

Deciding on the best countertop for your kitchen will require careful consideration of renovation strategy, budget, and style. Keeping these factors in mind will make it much easier to arrive at the countertop that feels just right for you.

This is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Kids, Pets, and Your Carpet

Everyone knows that extra wear, spills, and accidents take a toll on carpet, and this is especially true in homes with kids and pets. Whether the culprit has two legs or four, here are some tips on what carpets material holds up best and how to keep carpets looking great.

Best Carpet Material for Kids and Pets

If you are contemplating getting new carpeting and you have kids and pets, there are carpets that are made to withstand the additional wear and possible staining that will occur when they are active in the house. One of the best materials is nylon fibers. A nylon fiber carpet is a good choice because it is affordable and durable. Stain resistance is the best feature of nylon, which is so important with kids and pets in your household.

Keeping Carpet Clean With Kids and Pets

Throw Rugs
Since pets have a habit of being territorial, they generally will only go to certain areas to relax. Once you have determined where your pet likes to sit, put a throw rug on that spot. In time, your pet will naturally go there, and the wear will take a toll on the rug instead of your carpet. The rug will also make it easier to vacuum up any shedding that may occur.

Vacuum Regularly
The best way to keep your carpet looking its best when you have children and pets at home is to vacuum regularly. Doing so will help remove fleas and dander from pets and any dirt or contaminants left behind by active children, prolonging the life of your carpet.

Remove toys and other things on the floor to ensure that you will maximize the area to be vacuumed. Move your couches and chairs enough to get the area behind them. It is also a good idea to change the furniture around a couple of times a year to get the areas beneath them vacuumed.

Good Habits
If you have very young children, clean them immediately if they get messy. If your children are older, encourage them to clean up after themselves. “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

Remove Shoes
Another way to keep children from tracking in dirt is to have them take off their shoes at the door. Set up a shoe location there. It can also be a transfer station, where they can change their shoes for slippers. The Japanese people have been practicing this since 700 A.D. Once you get in the habit of doing this, you will see a big difference when you vacuum your carpet.

Removing Spots
No matter how many preventative measures you take, sooner or later kids and pets will leave their mark. Handling the problem quickly will prevent any stain from spreading or leaving an odor to settle in. If you delay to take action, you will only add to the problem and it may require much more work on your part. There are stain and odor removal products available on the market that will help you when you need to clean the mess. Ask your carpet cleaning professional to make recommendations about specific products. You may even have some products on hand that will help you with clean up.

Different products can be used for specific problems. First you have to determine what type of spot or spill you have. This is important, because each discoloration needs to be treated differently. For example, little Johnny decides to surprise you and color your carpet with his favorite bright red crayon. There are different ways to remove crayon stains. You can use a dish soap solution to remove the stain. An alternative to that is to use your iron and a towel to transfer the stain. Each problem is unique and may require different measures. Remember if you are dealing with a spot or spill, don’t rub it in. Whether you are dealing with pet urine, Kool-aid, or a number of other problems associated with kids or pets, you can find plenty of helpful tips and info on spot and spill cleanup in our Carpet and Interior Textiles Care Guide and our interactive Stain Management App.

Professional Carpet Cleaning

If your carpet has a warranty, you may have to have it professionally cleaned once a year. Warranty or not, it is a good idea to have it done regularly, especially with kids and pets. Here are some of the many advantages:

• Preventing premature wear, saving money
• Removing allergens, dirt, and other contaminants
• Removing spots and stains
• Odor control
• Deep cleaning of high traffic areas
• Enhancing the overall look

Although kids and pets take a toll on carpet, purchasing the appropriate type of carpet, taking preventative measures, and proper upkeep will keep carpets looking great.

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In order to keep your new grout or newly cleaned grout clean, it should be sealed. There are so many sealers on the market today. Which ones are best? Which ones really work?

It can be very confusing trying to choose a sealer to protect grout. In the past several years, the janitorial industry has bombarded the market with hundreds of products to seal & protect grout.

Fortunately, all of these products fall into only two major categories: Coating & Impregnators or penetrating sealers.

Coatings:

Coatings are sealers that place a sacrificial coating on the surface of the grout. This is a film that lays on top of the grout acting as a barrier to prevent water, oil and dirt from entering the pores.

Coatings can be classified into two general types: Strippable & Permanent.

Strippable coatings:

Strippable coatings are coatings that are designed to be easily stripped or removed from the surface of the grout. These coatings are made of polymers consisting of acrylics, styrene, polyethylene and others. They are usually water based. Many of the janitorial products are water based polymer type coatings. To identify these coatings look for terms on the label such as “metal cross link,” ”high solids,” ”high speed,” “acrylic,” “thermoplastic,” etc. When in doubt, ask. There are hundreds of different formulas of strippable coatings.

Permanent coatings:

Permanent coatings are coatings that are very difficult to remove. They are made of solvent-based polymers such as polyurethane, epoxies, etc. These are not recommended for grout.

Impregnators or penetrating sealers:

Impregnators are designed to penetrate below the surface of the grout, and deposit solid particles in the pores or to coat the individual minerals below the surface. Water, oil and dirt are restricted from entering.

Impregnators can be solvent or water based and usually contain silicone, siloxane, silane, methyl silicate or other similar silicon derivatives as well as Fluro alphatic polymers.

Impregnators can also be classified into two types: Hydrophobic-water repelling & oilophopic-oil repelling.

Hydrophobic impregnators

Hydrophobic impregnators are designed to repel only water and water based chemicals. A hydrophobic impregnator would repel fruit drinks, coffee, tea, soda, etc.

Oilophobic impregnators

Oilophobic impregnators are designed to repel water and oil based liquids. Cooking oil, grease, body oils, etc. would be repelled by an oilophobic impregnator.

An oilophobic impregnator will always be hydrophobic, but a hydrophobic impregnator may not be oilophobic. Be sure to read product labels carefully to determine if they are hydrophobic or oilophobic. Some products are listed as oil resistant. Oil resistant and oil repellant are entirely different. Oil resistant will only slow down the absorption of oil into the grout. Oil repellant will prevent oil from entering the grout. Again, read product labels carefully. Be sure you are buying the right product for your particular situation.

COATING OR IMPREGNATOR?

How do you make the determination between a coating or an impregnator? They both have their advantages and their disadvantages. The following summary should be studied carefully when choosing the proper product:

Coating Advantages

• Coatings are sealers that place a protective, sacrificial layer on the surface of the grout.
• Coatings are generally economical.
• The initial application is relatively low.
• Coatings are difficult to apply since you must apply them with a brush or applicator, which can be very tedious.
• Coatings generally will provide a sacrificial coating. This layer will take most of the wear, preventing wear of the grout.

Coating Disadvantages

• Since most coatings are typically softer than the grout itself, they will usually scratch, mar and scuff very easily, showing traffic patterns soon after application. This will require re-application.
• Coatings can build up and can cause an unsightly appearance, producing an unnatural look.
• Poor quality coatings can turn yellow. This is especially true if the grout is exposed to UV light.
• Coatings require frequent stripping and reapplication. The chemicals and abrasives used in the stripping process may cause damage to the grout. Typically, certain stripping pads and stripping brushes can also cause damage.
• Certain coatings may block the breathing capability of the grout. Moisture can become trapped below the surface and may lead to the grout falling apart

Impregnators Advantages

• Most impregnators will not change the appearance of the grout.
• Most impregnators do not require frequent applications. Since the impregnator is below the surface, it will generally last several years before reapplication is necessary.
• Most impregnators are not affected by UV light since they are below the surface where UV light cannot penetrate. For this reason they can be used outdoors.
• Impregnators are typically hydrophobic, while some are oiliophobic.

Impregnators Disadvantages

• Impregnators that are solvent-based produce noxious and flammable vapors during application.
• Solvent-based impregnators are harmful to the environment, producing high VOC (volatile organic compounds). For this reason, some are restricted in certain states. Always check the MSDS sheet.
• The initial cost of most impregnators is relatively high.
• Impregnators in general cannot be used below grade to resist hydrostatic pressure.
• When choosing the proper product for protection, the above guidelines should help. Always talk with the manufacture or distributor, and let them know where you plan to use their product. They can be very helpful if you tell them all the conditions that apply.

COLOR SEALING

Color sealing is another process which not only seals your grout but also colors it. This option may be necessary if the grout is so soiled it won’t come clean or you wish to change the color of your grout.

STILL CONFUSED?

While cleaning and sealing can be a do it yourself project, it can get tricky and if you use the wrong cleaner or sealer you take the chance of not only damaging your grout but also your stone or tile. I would highly recommend that you contact a pro. This way the process will be done correctly and will last a lot longer.