Upright vs Canister Vacuums

Choosing a Vacuum Cleaner

It’s common knowledge that having your carpet and floors professionally cleaned regularly extends their life and keeps them looking newer longer. Yet, there needs to be some routine cleaning done in-between professional cleanings. Spills and stains need to be addressed as soon as possible and routine vacuuming is essential to keeping your carpets and floors clean in between professional cleanings. However, what you vacuum with is just as important as the vacuuming itself. Here we are going to look at the pros and cons of the 2 most commonly used types of vacuums: upright and cannister vacuums.

Pros of Upright Vacuum Cleaners

Ease of Use: Due to the all-in-one design, an upright is easier to move. It can be pushed easily from room to room with little effort.

Wide Footprint: The vacuum head of an upright is usually bigger than a canister making it quicker to vacuum even the largest of areas.

Emptying Debris: Most modern uprights have plastic containers that collect the debris. These containers snap in and out quickly and easily, plus they have a one touch button making emptying easy.

Storage: Their design makes it possible for uprights to stand alone in corners or closets without taking up much space.

Pros of Cannister Vacuum Cleaners

Noise: Cannister vacuums are a bit quieter than uprights. Their decibel level is about the same as a washing machine. This may be a factor if you have babies, dogs or someone in your home that has sensitive hearing.

Suction: Generally, cannister vacuums have more suction power. They are great at cleaning bare floors and can clean carpets effectively.

Cords: Retractable cords are stored inside a cannister vacuum. This reduces the chance of a trip and fall accident while it is in use or in storage.

Weight: Cannister vacuums usually weigh less. The difference in pounds may not be much, but their design makes them seem less cumbersome and heavy.

Cons of Upright Vacuum Cleaners

Noise: Their nose level is louder than cannister vacuums. It is something close to a coffee grinder. If you have babies or dogs, they may find it uncomfortable.

Weight: Uprights can weigh 20 pounds or more. While they push fairly easily, if you have stairs, lugging 20+ pounds up and down can get tiresome. You might want to consider a hand-held or stick vac for stairs.

Maneuverability: The vacuum head is bigger and wider on an upright so it doesn’t get into all the little corners and may require balancing on stairs if the head is wider than the stair itself.

Cords: Cords are stored on the outside of the vacuum and frequently lay on the floor while in use. This presents a trip and fall hazard.

Cons of Cannister Vacuums

Storage: Due to their design, cannister vacuums along with their cords and attachments take up much more space than an upright. If you have limited storage space, that may be a consideration.

Effectiveness: Even though they generally have more suction power than an upright, uprights are routinely rated to clean carpets more effectively. Take into consideration what types of flooring surfaces you have in your home when making a vacuum decision.

Maneuverability: A cannister vacuum rolls on wheels as you pull it from room to room. If you have thick carpet or rugs, the smaller wheels may get bogged down or stuck in the carpet.

Emptying Debris: Bagged cannister vacuums are more efficient at picking up dirt and debris. However, throwing away a dirty bag filled with debris and dust can be a hassle. Those vacuum bags need to be replaced every month or two, so you are continuously having to buy new bags. That can become costly over time. There are bagless models available, but they tend to be more expensive.

A vacuum clearer should be considered an investment in helping to extend the life of your flooring surfaces. Price should not be the only consideration.

  • What types of surfaces do you have?
  • Are there stairs involved?
  • Do you have pets?
  • Are there people or animals that may be bothered by noise?
  • Does anyone have a respiratory problem?

All these things need to be taken into consideration when purchasing a vacuum cleaner. In this particular situation, if all you consider is price, you may end up not getting what you need.


By Sharon Koehler. This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

5 Common Stone Misconceptions

In all phases of life, different products come and go. Some are good, some are not. The one thing they all have in common is that every product, no matter what it is, has some sort of “misconception” or mistruth told about it. Carrots improve night vision, canned vegetables are not healthy, coffee stunts growth, etc. Stone is no different. There are plenty of misconceptions surrounding natural stone and natural stone projects.

Let’s take a look at some of the more common stone misconceptions:

#1 – Natural Stone is High Maintenance: Natural stone does require maintenance but it is not necessarily “high maintenance.” Cutting boards are recommended on stone, but they are for other types of countertops as well. Regular cleaning is recommended, but again, for other types of countertop material also, not just stone. The biggest difference is sealing. Most stone does require sealing but that doesn’t have to be a big deal. Fabricators will seal it before installation. If it ever needs resealing, your stone pro can help with that.

#2 – Natural Stone is Expensive: Granted, some natural stone can be expensive BUT natural stone comes in a wide variety of price ranges. It is inexpensive enough that homeowners, home builders, and contractors use it for their projects every day. It is also expensive enough to go into high-end projects. The price of stone depends on a lot of different things, but stone can fit into almost any budget.

#3 – Natural Stone Cannot be Repaired: Restoration contractors repair stone every day, fabricators and installers as well. All sorts of damage to stone can be fixed. Chips, pits, cracks, and stains are among some of the things that can be successfully corrected by stone professionals. In fact, stone can be repaired to like new, unlike many other materials.

#4 – Stone is Out of Style: Trends have come and gone throughout time. Quartz, laminate, butcher block, porcelain, etc. have all shared the market with natural stone. However, natural stone has been, and still is, a wise choice for projects, inside and out. Natural stone has a lasting style. It has been the center of projects, big and small for centuries. The Leaning Tower of Pisa, Mount Rushmore, and Angkor Wat are but a few testaments to its lasting durability. The millions of kitchen countertops, fireplace surrounds, and floor and wall projects are a tribute to its beauty and sustainability.

#5 – Natural Stone Stains Quickly and Easily: Yes, natural stone can stain. However, a properly sealed surface can buy you time to deal with a spill before it becomes a stain. Sealers slow down the absorption of the potential stain. You would naturally wipe up any spills on any other material, stone is just the same. On the off chance that it does stain, you can consult our stain guide under the resources tab on our website or call us for help.

Natural stone, like everything else out there, has misconceptions and and mistruths. When shopping for material for a project, make sure you get the truth of the material and not the “misconceptions” connected to it.


By Sharon Koehler. This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Carpet Padding

What is carpet padding?

Carpet padding is a separate piece of underlayment that you put down between the floor and the bottom of your carpet or area rug. It can be made of a variety of different materials, such as rubber, fiber, or foam. Carpet padding can normally be purchased as a pad or a roll and if needed, it can be cut, usually with scissors, to fit your space

Why do I need carpet padding?

There are several reasons you should always get carpet padding under your carpet or area rug.

  • Makes walking easier – Carpet padding absorbs the shock and impact of your footsteps, helping to alleviate walking fatigue. It also makes walking softer and more comfortable.
    Absorbs sounds- Studies show that carpet padding actually absorbs sound, making your footsteps quieter and less likely to disturb other people. This is especially important in multi-story homes.
  • Carpet Life – Having a carpet pad under your carpet or area rug helps to extend the life of your carpet. A carpet pad helps to reduce fiber crushing and keeps your carpet looking and feeling softer for much longer than a carpet without a pad underneath. It also absorbs the impact of everyday wear and tear, which also extends the life of your carpet.
  • Insulation – Carpet padding helps to insulate your home. It helps with heat retention in the winter and cool air retention in the summer, in turn helping to reduce your heating and cooling bills.
  • Protection – A carpet pad underneath your carpet or rug helps to protect your original floor from damage. Sometimes the backing on a carpet can scratch your original floor. Plus, any spills or pet stains that seep through the carpet itself, will also have to go through the pad before it reaches the original floor.
  • Safety – This is important with area rugs. Padding can keep area rugs from slipping and sliding, reducing slip and fall accidents

Does thickness matter?

The thickness of carpet padding actually does matter. The thickness of the pad should range somewhere between ¼ inch and 7/16 of an inch, although some experts say ½ inch is fine. Thickness should depend on the type of carpet fiber and the location where the carpet is being put.

  • If your padding is too thin, it will not absorb the shocks, and wear and tear needed to extend the life of your carpet or area rug. Plus, it will not cushion your footsteps or absorb sounds as well.
  • If your padding is too thick, it can cause uneven wear on your carpet, as well as promote seam splitting.
  • Talk to your carpet specialist about the thickness that is best for the carpet or rug you have.

Can carpet padding be cleaned?

Sometimes yes and sometimes no. The trick to cleaning the pad is to remove the carpet on top. With wall-to-wall carpet, that is not so easy. With area rugs, that process is much easier. However, if you can’t remove the carpet or if the stain is very bad, the best thing to do is to consult your carpet cleaning specialists. They can guide you on the best course of action for cleaning your pad.

You wouldn’t wash dishes without detergent or get a new computer without virus software. You shouldn’t get new carpet or rugs without the correct padding underneath. Consider the padding to be a helper in your carpet or rug investment. It will help to extend the life of your carpet or rug and make you more comfortable at the same time. Remember, always get the padding with the carpet.


This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Granite vs Porcelain for Countertops

Times change, trends change. In the recent past, laminate was the countertop of choice. Over time, that trend gave way to natural stone, like granite, soapstone, or marble. Then quartz came along and became popular. Now, porcelain has entered the countertop market. Not as tile (although that is an option), but as full-size slabs for countertops. The question is: How does porcelain stack up against granite for countertops?

What is Granite?

Granite is a 100% natural stone product, created by the ongoing processes of mother nature and the earth. Man finds it and mines it but has nothing to do with its creation.

What is Porcelain?

Porcelain is a man-made product, created by engineers. It contains soft, white clay and various other materials such as feldspar, quartz, ash, sand, and other ingredients. Once mixed, these materials are shaped and then heated to over 2,200 degrees.

Pros and Cons of Granite Countertops:

Pros:
  • 100% natural
  • Stain resistant – When properly sealed, granite is stain resistant.
  • Unique – Not only is each color unique but no two slabs in a color are the same.
  • LEED points – Granite can contribute to LEED points in projects.
  • Variety – Granite comes in hundreds of assorted colors.
  • Readily available – Granite is mined throughout the world.
  • Heat resistant – Hot pots and pans can be placed on granite surfaces. (Although trivets are recommended.)
  • Repairs – If granite is damaged, it can be normally be repaired by a qualified stone restoration technician.
  • Longevity – Granite has been around for thousands of years. It has shown itself to be a stable, beautiful, versatile product we can use for countertops and various other projects.
Cons:
  • Seams – Depending on the size of the project there may be visible seams.
  • Expense – Granite comes in a wide range of price points, but depending on the look and color you want, it may be costly.
  • Damage – Granite is a very durable product but it can be damaged. Chips and cracks can happen if something is dropped on the stone.
  • Maintenance – Granite is not maintenance free. To avoid stains, wipe up spills as soon as possible, and clean with a stone safe cleaner as needed.
  • Sealing – Granite sealer is not permanent. Occasionally, resealing your granite may be necessary. This should be done by a qualified stone technician that understands the qualities of your specific granite.

Pros and Cons of Porcelain Countertops:

Pros:
  • Heat proof – Porcelain is created with extremely high heat, so the normal heat of hot pots and pans won’t normally harm it.
  • Low maintenance – Clean with soap and water. Sealing is not needed.
  • UV resistant – Porcelain won’t fade in the sunlight, making it great for outdoor projects.
  • Chemical resistant – Acidic foods or harsh chemicals won’t etch, fade, or dull the surface.
Cons:
  • Edges – Porcelain is a thinner material than granite, so the edge options are limited.
  • Variety – Porcelain does offer a variety of colors and patterns but because the countertop aspect of porcelain is still new, it does not have the wide variety of granite.
  • Longevity – Porcelain for countertops is relatively new to the market so there are not a lot of statistics or information about the long-term stability of porcelain as a countertop material.
  • Expense – While porcelain may not be more expensive than granite, because it is a thinner material, edges may have to be laminated or the countertop may need a backer board, adding to fabrication costs.
  • Depth of color – Unless you specifically request through body porcelain (a product where the pattern of the porcelain goes all the way through the slab), you may end up with a color body product. A color body porcelain only has the pattern on top of the slab. It does not go all the way through, so when cut, the edges will not be the same as the top of the slab.
  • Cracking – Porcelain, while very durable, can be prone to cracking. Porcelain is a rigid, thinner material making it much more susceptible to cracking during fabrication, installation, and everyday use.

No one product is 100% perfect for every project. It’s best to do the research, and talk to professionals, weigh the pros and cons of each surface and decide which one best suits your needs. Taking these steps will ensure you choose the surface that is best for you.


This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Sealers Can Help Protect Your Stone

[This article was originally published in October of 2018]

Kitchen countertops, bathroom vanity tops, bar tops, and the like can be prone to staining because they are exposed to oily or dye-containing substances on a daily, or sometimes, even an hourly basis. Consequently, a sealer should be applied to help prevent staining. Choosing the correct type of sealer can be very important for how the sealer performs. An experienced, professional stone restoration contractor will know which sealer is best, taking into consideration the characteristics of the particular type of stone to which it will be applied and the location where the stone is installed.

Impregnating Sealers

Impregnating sealers, also known as penetrating sealers, are the most commonly used sealers. They are applied to natural stone to inhibit staining. Impregnating sealers penetrate below the surface and protect the stone from within. They are formulated with water-repellent and oil-repellent substances. Topical sealers are available, but can be problematic, and are very seldom recommended.

Misconceptions About Sealers

There are many misconceptions about what a sealer does and doesn’t do. It is important to note that sealers do not prevent traffic patterns or etching. The surface of the stone is still vulnerable to acidic substances, scratches, dullness, and other damage. In addition, natural stone, even when it is properly sealed, is not stain proof, it is merely stain resistant. In other words, it buys some time so that spills can be cleaned before they penetrate into the stone and become stains. After natural stone is sealed, it still needs to be regularly cleaned with pH neutral stone care products and periodically refinished or resealed.

New High Performance Protective Treatments

There are new protective treatments that, unlike impregnating sealers, offer both etch and stain protection.

Ask us about how we can help protect your natural stone.


This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Why You Should Rearrange Your Furniture

There is a Lot to Be Said for Rearranging Your Furniture

[This article was originally published in October 2018]

Furniture arrangement sets a tone for how a space is used. Once you’ve settled on a layout that works for you, why change it? Well, it turns out that there are actually quite a few benefits associated with changing your furniture layout. Here are the details.

Psychological Benefits

Did you know there may actually be psychological benefits to rearranging furniture? For creative people, rearranging furniture is an opportunity for creative expression. For people who want to hit an emotional reset button, rearranging furniture provides physical and visual evidence of change. If the urge for a fresh decorating scheme hits you, rearranging furniture can create a sense of newness without the expense of replacing your current furniture. And last but not least, it certainly can’t hurt to take the focus off of the TV and establish a space that is more conducive to social interaction.

It’s Good for Carpets and Rugs

Carpets and rugs are subject to damage from foot traffic, heavy furniture, and sun fading. Rearranging your furniture is a great way to combat all three problems. The more you are able to alter traffic patterns and create new walkways in a space, the less likely your carpets and rugs are to develop uneven wear, tracking, and footpaths. Moving heavy furniture also helps prevent excessive compression of the fibers, because it gives the fibers a chance to recuperate and bounce back. When you rotate the position of furniture, solar damage is spread more evenly and is less noticeable.

Better Health and Fatter Pocketbook

Dust and dander tend to collect under and behind furniture. Every time you rearrange your furniture, it creates a convenient opportunity for some quick spring cleaning. If you have carpeting or rugs, they act as giant air filters, reducing the allergens in the air you breathe, and consequently, they should be professionally cleaned on a regular basis. Many of our clients time their furniture rearranging with our services twice per year. Their most used furniture is placed according to the season, maximizing warmth coming in from a sunny window or near a fireplace in the fall or winter and taking advantage of coolness near an air conditioner vent or open window in the spring or summer.

Overcoming Limitations

If the room size limits your ability to rearrange furniture, consider reducing how much furniture you have or replacing large pieces with smaller ones. An overcrowded room feels oppressive. The more walking space there is, as well as the more space there is between walls and furniture, the less confining a room will feel. Having less furniture or smaller size furniture can really help.

If, for whatever reason, you can’t rearrange your room entirely, consider adjusting the furniture by a few inches every few months to avoid excessive compression of the carpet and rug fibers.


By Sharon Koehler. This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Central Vacuum Systems

Should You Invest in a Central Vacuum System?

As we know, vacuuming our home’s floor surfaces is the first line of defense against dirt and grime building up. This buildup can make floors look dirty and dingy or it can cause the floors and carpet fibers to be damaged. Vacuuming is essential to floor surface care.

Today’s homes often have mixed floor surfaces such as: hardwood, area rugs, tile, and wall-to-wall carpet. Not all vacuum cleaners are meant to clean all surfaces. You may end up having to buy more than one type of vacuum cleaner to take care of your surfaces. Plus, if you have a multi-level home with stairs, you either have to buy multiple vacuums for each level or you have to lug vacuums up and down the stairs to get all your surfaces clean. What a drag. If this does not appeal to you, think about installing a central vacuum system in your home. Let’s take a look at some the pros and cons of central vacuum systems.

Pros:

  • Warranties: Most systems come with multiyear warranties, some up to 10 years. Whereas, most portable vacuums, even the high-end ones come with a one-year warranty.
    Suction: Since the motors on central vacuum systems are so much larger, they have much more powerful suction, enabling you to pick up more dirt and debris.
  • Convenience: Instead of lugging a heavy, portable vacuum around, with a central vacuum system, you only need to carry the hose AND if you get a retractable hose option at your ports, you won’t even need to carry that.
  • Options: There are tool options for all your flooring needs and there are options for the systems such as wet/dry to help with spills, HEPA filters, retractable hoses, and baseboard dust slots to eliminate the need for dustpans. You can sweep directly into the slot.
  • Noise: Regular, mobile vacuums have a noise rating of 70-85 decibels, approximately the sound level of a lawn mower. It annoys kids and pets alike. A central vac system goes to roughly 60 decibels or about the same as a window air conditioner. Quieter and much less annoying.
  • Air Quality: Since the suction is superior to that of a standard vacuum cleaner, it eliminates more allergens and dust. Plus, it sucks these things out of your immediate living area, and you only have to empty the dust container a few times a year reducing your exposure to these irritants.

Cons:

  • Expense: The initial outlay for a system, depending on options, location, and brand can be upwards of several thousand dollars.
  • Energy: Central vacuum systems have larger motors and more suction power, so they require more energy than smaller, portable vacuum cleaners.
  • Storage: If you don’t get retractable hose ports, hoses can be up to thirty feet long, taking up much more space in a closet than a regular vacuum cleaner.
  • Suction: While a central vacuum system has more powerful suction than a standard vacuum, that can be a problem. If you are not careful, the extra power can accidentally suck things up you wanted to keep. Or it can suck up items too big for the system causing clogs or other malfunctions.
  • Potential Damages: Hoses can reach up to thirty feet enabling multi- room cleaning. However, unless you are careful, hoses can rub on walls and furniture causing wear, scuffs, and other damage.
  • Repairs: If something does go wrong, repairs can be costly, especially if the issue is behind the walls of your home. Some brands require that only certified, licensed technicians work on your system, or the warranty may be voided.

Whether you decide to invest in a central vacuum system or not, vacuuming alone should only be considered the first line of defense against carpet wear. While vacuuming does help prevent premature wear and damage, it does not replace the routine, deep cleaning performed by professionals. The three-pronged approach of: taking care of spills and stains immediately, proper vacuuming and routine deep cleaning is the best way to keep your carpets and rugs looking their best for years to come.


By Sharon Koehler. This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Cultured Marble vs Real Marble

Are cultured marble and real marble the same thing?

Cultured marble and real marble sound the same, but they are two completely different things. Each one is created differently. They are fabricated differently, and they are installed, cared for, and repaired differently. The only real similarity is that they both have marble in their name.

What is cultured marble?

Cultured marble is a man-made product that contains dyes, marble dust and resin. After it’s made, it gets coated with a high-shine, clear gel to protect it. Because of the way it’s made, cultured marble is more closely related to Corian or Hi-Macs solid surfaces. It is often called faux marble.

What is real marble?

Real marble is created by mother nature. Man has nothing to do with it. What man does is quarry it out of the earth, cut it, polish it, and install it in different projects.

How can I tell the difference between cultured and real marble?

  • Cultured marble projects have integrated sinks and backsplashes. (All one-piece design). Real marble projects have separate backsplash pieces and separate sinks.
  • Cultured marble can be manipulated to mimic real marble but will have a flat appearance that lacks depth. The protective gloss can even make it appear like plastic. Real marble will have depth to its look.
  • Cultured marble, made in a factory with a formula, has a consistent look, piece after piece. No two pieces of real marble are identical.
  • Cultured marble is considered more of a budget friendly product while real marble is considered more of a luxury item.
  • Cultured marble never needs sealing. Real marble does.
  • The protective coating on cultured marble gives it a high shine. Marble may have a high shine, but it can also have a dull, matte finish, giving it a softer look.

While cultured marble and real marble have vast differences, they can both be cleaned and maintained in basically the same way, with non-abrasive, pH-neutral cleaners. Look for cleaners that specifically state they are for cleaning cultured marble or real marble, depending on what you have. Both materials can be etched by harsh, abrasive chemicals and cleaning products. Both can also sustain chips, scratches, and cracks. Even though they can both be damaged in similar ways, the tools and processes used to fix them are different.

Can cultured marble be repaired?

Most damage on cultured marble can be repaired if the gel coat has not been penetrated or removed.

  • Light scratches can be addressed with automotive buffing compound.
  • Cracks and chips can be repaired with a retail repair kit specifically designed for cultured marble. It may be best, however, to let a professional stone restoration contractor handle such damage for the best possible results.
  • Since the gel coat on cultured marble is non-porous, deep stains don’t normally happen. Usually, stains can be dealt with by using a cultured marble cleaner or denatured alcohol and a non-abrasive pad.
  • Deep scratches or large chips and cracks may require a professional restoration technician or may require replacement altogether.
  • If the gel coat has been worn off, damaged or removed, it is also best to call a professional restoration contractor.

Can real marble be repaired?

Under most circumstances, real marble can be repaired to new or almost new condition.

  • Light scratches can be minimized by using a dry, soft buffing cloth in a circular motion after cleaning the area with warm, soapy water.
  • Cracks and chips can be repaired with a retail repair kit specifically designed for real marble or natural stone. It may be best, however, to let a professional stone restoration contractor handle such damage for the best possible results.
  • Stains can usually be drawn out with a poultice. Once you identify the stain, look at the Stain Care App on our website under the Resources tab to see what sort of poultice you need.
  • Deep scratches, set-in stains, etch marks or large chips and cracks may require a professional restoration technician.
  • If your marble needs to be resealed, it is best to call a professional.

While cultured marble and real marble are vastly different surfaces, they each have the potential to enhance the look of different projects in your home. The key is to realize which one you have so you can properly clean and maintain it, keeping it beautiful for years to come.


By Sharon Koehler. This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Cleaning Synthetic Carpets and Rugs

How to Keep Your Synthetic Carpets and Rugs Clean, Fresh, and Inviting

No matter what type of synthetic fiber your carpets and rugs are, proper cleaning and care not only enhances the look of your carpet but can help prevent premature wear. All synthetic fiber is not created the same, and each material requires its own unique cleaning methods, even when it comes to vacuuming. Let’s look at how to keep your synthetic carpets and rugs clean and looking good.

Nylon Carpets and Rugs

Nylon is the most popular fiber for synthetic carpets and rugs. It is estimated that two thirds of synthetic carpets sold are nylon. It is stain resistant, static free, and retains its pile height extremely well. However, you need to use proper care to help it maintain these qualities.

General Care:
  • Vacuum at a minimum, weekly, and more often in high traffic areas.
  • Use a soft bristle beater bar in the vacuum. Hard bristles can cause fuzzing.
  • For area rugs, flip them over and vacuum the underside as well.

It is recommended that you get your nylon carpet professionally cleaned at least every year.

Spill and Stain Care:
  • Immediately blot up or remove as much of the stain or spill as possible, using a clean white cloth. You can also use a wet dry vac.
  • Wet but do not saturate the area with warm, not hot water.
  • Blot up excess moisture until the stain is removed.
  • If the stain persists or reappears, use a mixture of ¼ teaspoon dish detergent and 1 cup warm water. Rinse with warm water and blot. Repeat until all the detergent is gone.
  • Area rugs can be machine washed on the gentle cycle at home or in a large commercial machine at your local laundry mat.

Polyester Carpets and Rugs

Polyester rugs are affordable, stain resistant and great in high-spill areas. However, dirt and debris can damage the carpet fibers, so routine carpet maintenance is a must.

General Care:
  • If the rug is small enough, shake it outside before you vacuum.
  • Vacuum at a minimum, weekly, and 3-4 times a week in high-traffic areas.
  • If possible, vacuum both sides of the rug.
  • For shag rugs, disable or remove the beater bar and vacuum with suction only.
  • It is recommended that you get your polyester carpet deep cleaned by professionals yearly.
Spill and Stain Care:
  • Immediately blot up or remove as much of the spot or spill as possible with a white towel or paper towels.
  • Put a few drops of dish detergent in a cup of cool water and blot on the spot with a clean sponge. Don’t rub.
  • Clean the sponge and repeat until the stain is gone.
  • Rinse the area with cool water until the soap is all gone.
  • Let dry completely before you use it again.
  • Area rugs can be machine washed on the cold water cycle at home or in a large commercial machine at your local laundry mat.

Olefin Carpets and Rugs

Olefin carpets are fade and moisture resistant. They also dry very quickly after cleaning due to their moisture and stain resistance. One thing to keep in mind is olefin fiber has a low melting point starting at 225 degrees, so be careful with heat treatments.

General Care:
  • Vacuum at a minimum, weekly, but more frequently is preferred.
  • If possible, vacuum both sides of the rug.
  • Steam cleaning is not recommended for Olefin rugs. It can discolor or damage the fibers.
  • Dry cleaning is fine for these types of rugs. There are DIY kits on the market, or you can contact us.
Spill and Stain Care:
  • Immediately blot up or remove as much of the spot or spill as possible, using a clean white cloth.
  • Spray the area with a commercial carpet cleaner and let it dry. Then vacuum the area.
  • Always blot with a clean, white cloth and allow the rug to dry completely before walking on it or brushing up the pile.
  • Olefin area rugs can be machine washed on the cool water cycle at home or in a large commercial machine at your local laundry mat.
  • If the spot or spill is oil based, you may need the help of a professional, as oil-based material is very difficult to remove from Olefin fiber.

Triexta Carpets and Rugs

Triexta is still a rather new material for carpets and rugs. When seeking a carpet cleaning professional, be sure to ask if they are knowledgeable about Triexta.

General Care:
  • Vacuum weekly, but in high traffic areas, more frequently.
  • Set the beater bar at high height to help prevent fuzzing of the fiber.
  • Get the carpet professionally cleaned every 12-18 months.
Spill and Stain care:
  • Blot immediately with white paper towels.
  • Do not scrub, as this may cause fuzzing.
  • Spray with cold water and blot from the outside to the middle of the stain or spill.
  • Repeat until the stain is gone.
  • Press dry by layering white paper towels over the area and pressing in place with a flat weight until dry.
  • If the spill area is large, you can use a wet/dry vac.

Wall-to-wall carpets and area rugs can add so much to the décor and warmth of your home.


By Sharon Koehler. This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.

Natural Stone – Fissures vs Cracks

Fissures vs Cracks

Natural stone, granite, marble, quartzite, etc., is made by, well, nature. Man has nothing to do with it. We just quarry it, sell it, and put it where clients want it. Then we ooh and ahh and remark how pretty it looks. Yes, it is pretty and it does deserve our admiration, but it can have natural, unique occurrences in it called fissures. Fissures can give your stone project that one-of-a-kind look that people love. Natural stone can also have cracks. Cracks can be natural or unnatural occurrences. Fissures and cracks look remarkably similar, but they are not the same thing. Here we will explore the differences between them and help you know what to do about them.

What are fissures?

Fissures are defined as: A long, narrow crack or opening in the face of a rock. Fissures are often filled with minerals of a different type from those in the surrounding rock.

Basically, what this means, is that fissures are natural occurrences in the stone and normally they don’t affect the integrity of the stone itself. They are not considered to be flaws or defects. Fissures are not normally localized in stone slabs. They are usually spread out through the entire piece.

What are cracks?

Cracks are defined as: A line on the surface of granite, marble or another natural stone that has split without breaking into separate parts.

Cracks usually happen when the stone has stress or trauma applied to it, and they can run almost all the way through the depth of the stone. However, by the time the stone gets to the point of installation, cracks have generally been addressed, usually by the fabricator. As a general rule, cracks are mostly confined to one area of a slab.

How can you tell the difference between fissures and cracks?

One way is to rub your finger or fingernail over the area in question. If it is smooth, then it is a fissure. If your finger feels a bump or your fingernail gets caught or drags over the area because it’s not level, then it is a crack.

Another way to tell is to shine a light on the stone and look across the plane of the surface. A crack will have two points of reflection, one for each plane, but a fissure will only have one point of reflection as it is an even surface.

What can be done about fissures?

Nothing. They are a natural part of the stone and are not considered flaws or defects. You can just admire them for making your stone project unique.

What can be done about cracks?

If you see a crack while the stone is still at the distributor or wholesaler, think about staying away from it, no matter how much you love it. There is no guarantee that the stone will survive transport to the fabricator, and there is no guarantee that the fabricator will be able to cut around it.

If you discover a crack in the stone at the fabricator’s shop, find out if they can cut around it. If not, ask them if it is severe enough to compromise the integrity of the stone. If they say yes, then pick something else. If the fabricator says it’s minor, ask them how they intend to fix it. Then it is up to you whether you accept it or pick something else.

What if a crack forms after install?

If you notice a crack after install, you will want to have someone look at it right away. Left unattended, it could get worse. If your project was recently put in, you may want to give the business that installed it a call. They won’t warranty the stone itself, because Mother Nature made it, but a good company will warranty their own workmanship. If it has been a while or you know you did something to cause the crack, even accidently, you should contact your stone and tile restoration and repair technician. Your restoration or repair technician will know exactly what the issue is and how to repair it. They deal with these types of occurrences on a regular basis.

Natural stone is beautiful, and the projects created with it can take your breath away. In spite of its natural beauty and versatility, it is not a perfect product. We need to learn how to appreciate and work with its occasional imperfections and flaws. After all, those unique imperfections can help give your stone projects the “WOW” factor everyone loves.


By Sharon Koehler. This article is one of a series of articles written and published on behalf of Surface Care PROS Partners.