Category: Articles

Graffiti Removal Procedure for Stone, Masonry, and Tile Surfaces

by Fred Hueston

If your beautiful building, wall, or other surface has just become the unintended canvas for graffiti, your first reaction might be to call your maintenance staff to pressure wash it away. Unfortunately, pressure washing can leave stains behind or shadowing caused by the high pressured water. If you are dealing with paint, markers, or other water-soluble types of graffiti, as well as post-cleanup stains or shadowing on stone, tile, brick, or masonry, this article offers some guidance on what to do next.

Graffiti Types

There are many kinds of paints, markers, or other mediums that are used for graffiti. The most common types are aerosol paints and felt tip markers because they are easy to acquire and relatively inexpensive. Other graffiti mediums include chalk, charcoal, foods such as ketchup and mustard, red clay, and more. Any graffiti created with water-soluble material will be easy to remove with a mild washing.

Scribing is a type of graffiti that often causes permanent damage since a knife, screwdriver, rock, or other sharp object is used to scrape away the surface.

Graffiti Removal Rules

When it comes to graffiti removal, here are some very important considerations.

Time

The longer graffiti remains on a surface, the more likely it is to soak into the surface. The deeper it penetrates into the surface, the more difficult it will be to remove. For this reason, you will want to attempt removal as soon as possible.

Temperature

During summer months and in areas with warm climates, graffiti will dry faster and will have a tendency to penetrate deeper than in colder climates.

Abrasives

High pressure washing and abrasive brushes should be avoided, especially on soft stone, brick, and masonry surfaces. These methods may remove the graffiti but could leave a deep mark or what is called shadowing which is nearly impossible to correct.

Cleaners

Be careful choosing the proper cleaners or stain removers. Certain chemicals will emulsify the paint and drive it deeper into the surface making removal even more difficult.

Removing Graffiti

Step 1

Attempt to identify the graffiti type. Identification is key, since it will help you choose the proper chemical. Paint or marker are water-based or solvent-based mediums. Water-based paints can generally be removed with mild detergents, whereas solvent-based paints will require mineral spirits, paint stripper, or other solvent-based cleaning agents. The best way to find out what type of medium you are dealing with is to test a small area as follows. Once you know the medium, proceed to Step 2.

CAUTION: Make sure to do the water-based test first, since water-based paints can give false-positive test results with the solvent-based test.

Water-Based Test
Mix some mild detergent, such as a pH-neutral cleaner or dish soap and water in a spray bottle. Saturate a small area and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Wipe it off with a soft, white cloth. You may also agitate the area with a soft nylon bristle brush. If the graffiti comes off easily, then you are dealing with a water-based paint.

Solvent-Based Test
Moisten a clean, white rag with a small amount of mineral spirits. Gently blot the graffiti. If the graffiti is easily removed, then you are dealing with a solvent-based paint.

Step 2

1. Prepare a solution, per the manufacturer’s dilution instructions, of a pH-neutral cleaner or dish soap and water in a bucket or sprayer.
2. Rinse the surface with plain, clean water. This step is important, because it removes any potentially abrasive material such as dust, dirt, or grit from the surface.
3. Apply the cleaning solution with a soft nylon scrub brush. Work from the bottom of the wall to the top. Do not let the solution dry. If necessary, work in small sections. Lightly scrub the surface with the nylon brush and rinse with clean water.
4. If the above technique does not remove the graffiti, proceed to step 3.

Step 3

1. Make sure the surface is dry before proceeding further.
2. Put some paint stripper, such as mineral spirits, in a chemical-resistant spray bottle.
3. Apply a mist to the graffiti and scrub with a dry nylon brush.
4. Rinse the area with paint stripper.
5. Repeat this process, working in small areas at a time, from the bottom of the wall up. Be sure to rinse any streaks as you work.
6. If the graffiti is not totally removed, this means it is a stain.

General Instructions for Removing Stains

To remove a stain, apply a poultice, that is, a paste made of an absorbent powder mixed with a chemical. As the poultice dries, it wicks or lifts the stain out of the pores in the surface. First, select the appropriate ingredients.

Poultice Ingredients

Following are some types of poultice powders to mix with your cleaning agent:

• Clays (Attapulgite, Kaolin, Fullers Earth) WARNING: DO NOT USE ON RUST STAINS
• Talc
• Chalk (whiting)
• Sepiolite (hydrous magnesium silicate)
• Diatomaceous Earth
• Methyl Cellulose

Clays and diatomaceous earth are usually the best. Do not use whiting or iron-type clays, such as Fullers Earth, with acidic chemicals. They will react with the material, canceling the effect of the poultice.

Many stains are so deeply embedded that the poultice alone will not be completely effective. Some type of chemical solution will need to be added to the poultice. When the poultice and chemical are applied, the chemical is absorbed into the stone or masonry. The chemical reacts with the stain and is re-absorbed into the powder/material.

Following are suggested poultice ingredients. Please use extra caution when handling the chemicals listed below. Thoroughly read the Safety Data Sheets for each chemical before use.

• Iron (rust) – Poultice with Iron Out + powder + water. Iron Out is available at hardware stores. This may etch polished marble. If so, re-polishing will be necessary.
• Ink – Poultice with mineral spirits or methylene chloride + powder.
• Oil – Poultice with ammonia + powder. Methylene chloride can also be used on tough oil stains.
• Coffee, Tea & Food – Poultice with 20 percent hydrogen peroxide + powder.
• Copper – Poultice with ammonium chloride + powder.
• Water-Based Paint – Poultice with a commercial paint remover + powder.
• Oil-Based Paint – Poultice with mineral spirits + powder. Deep stains may require methylene chloride.

Applying the Poultice

1. Wet the stained area with distilled water. Pre-wetting fills the pores of the stone with water, which will help isolate the stain and accelerate the removal by the chemical.
2. Prepare the poultice. Mix the powder and the chemical of choice into a thick paste, about the consistency of peanut butter or thick enough that it will not run.
3. Apply the poultice to the stain. Apply the paste approximately 1/4-inch thick, extending beyond the stained area by about one inch. Be careful not to spill any on the surrounding area.
4. Cover the poultice with plastic (food wrap works great). Tape the plastic down to seal the edges. It also helps to poke several small holes in the plastic, so that the powder will dry out. Failure to do this may result in the poultice staying wet. The idea is to allow the moisture to slowly evaporate from the poultice.
5. Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is a very important step. The drying of the poultice is what pulls the stain from the stone into the poultice material. If the poultice is not allowed to dry, the stain may not be removed. Drying usually takes from 24 to 48 hours.
6. Use a flat, plastic scraper to carefully remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. If the stain is not removed, reapply the poultice. It may take up to five poultice applications to remove very difficult stains.

Some chemicals may leave etch damage on honed or polished marble and limestone surfaces. If etching occurs on a polished surface, apply polishing powder and buff with a piece of burlap to restore the shine. If etching occurs on a honed surface, do not use polishing powder, because this will leave a polished area that does not match with the surrounding finish. Contact a professional stone restoration contractor to remove the etch and restore your honed finish.

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This article, written by Fred Hueston, Chief Technical Director of Surface Care, and president of Stone Forensics.

Carrara Marble is a great choice for kitchen countertops, because of its beauty, coolness, and affordability. It can be an ideal for floors and wall tile as well. This marble has been quarried since ancient times and still is abundant today. It comes from the Carrara region of Italy, which is in the northernmost part of Tuscany.

Artistic Appeal of Carrara Marble

Michelangelo and other sculptors selected Carrara Marble as the medium for their work because of its aesthetic quality, smoothness and whiteness. Michelangelo’s famous statue of David was sculpted from Carrara Marble. It has been the marble of choice since ancient times, not only for sculptors, but also for builders.

Carrara Marble Colors and Veining

Although noted for its whiteness, Carrara Marble may contain shades of blue-gray or gray. Some Carrara Marble has beautiful veining, which makes it desirable and gives it an organic look that is pleasing to the eye. If you want a more subtle, pristine look, selecting the plain white variety is ideal.

Bakers love its coolness.

As a countertop, Carrara Marble has functionality as well as beauty. For example, bakers love to work with this marble countertop because of its coolness. It is the denseness and hardness of Carrara Marble that makes it conduct heat differently than other surfaces. When you knead bread or pie dough, the warmness is absorbed by the marble, yet it still retains its cool surface temperature. The surface also has a pleasant feel when you touch it.

The price is right.

If price is a factor in deciding what surface to choose for your countertop, then Carrara Marble is a very good choice. Because of its abundance, it is affordable. It is in the mid-range of pricing. In 2020, the price according to various sources is between $40 and $60 per square foot. Calcutta Marble, for example, is $180 per square foot.

How To Maintain Your New Carrara Marble Top

To preserve the whiteness, Carrara Marble should be cleaned regularly. You can use water and pH-neutral stone cleaner, but not soap. It can be rinsed using clear water and wiped down with a soft cloth or paper towels. Ask your stone professional for recommendations for specific products on the market that are designed to clean marble. These products should be used as instructed.

Sealant? Maybe.

Natural stone can be porous, which means it can absorb spills. Sealers may increase the amount of time it takes for stone to absorb a spill. Any sealant used on a kitchen countertop should be marked as safe to use in food preparation areas. It is best to have a stone professional apply sealers.

When spills happen, use an absorbent, white cloth or paper towels to blot the spill. Do not rub or wipe the spill, because doing so will just spread the potential for etching or discoloration over a wider surface area. Once the spill is absorbed, clean the area with water and pH-neutral stone cleaner.

A great choice.

Carrara Marble is a great choice for your new kitchen countertops, and because natural stone can be restored, you’ll be able to enjoy a lifetime of use.

DIY Carpet Cleaning? 3 Things Carpet Cleaning Machine Rental Companies Don’t Tell You

Companies who rent out carpet cleaning machines hope to give their customers more bang for their buck by supplying the equipment they need to achieve “professional quality” results themselves. While DIY carpet cleaning may be cheaper, it can result in frustration and problems for unsuspecting consumers. This article explains what you are not being told about renting carpet cleaning machines.

The Carpet and Rug Institute

The Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) is a non-profit trade association and source of carpet cleaning industry information that helps people make informed choices about carpet and rugs. CRI provides a Seal of Approval (SOA) program that tests cleaning products and equipment and then ranks them by level, according to the effectiveness. Both professional equipment and equipment designed for consumer use are ranked by CRI. Equipment is evaluated on soil removal efficacy, resoiling, residual moisture, surface appearance change, colorfastness, pH level, and optical brighteners. CRI’s SOA program does not, however, take into consideration the following important factors.

1. How much do rented carpet cleaning machines weigh?

Carpet cleaning machines weigh a lot more than vacuum cleaners. People who imagine themselves exerting only slightly more effort to use a carpet cleaning machine are in for a rude awakening. Carpet cleaning machines for consumer use usually weigh anywhere from 35 to 43 pounds. Add another 16 to 30 pounds of water, and you are looking at lifting, pushing, and pulling up to 73 pounds… possibly all day or longer. Carpet cleaning machines are heavy, bulky, and awkward to handle. Depending on the size of the home and health and fitness level of the user, this could be a real problem.

2. How long does it take to clean your own carpets?

Companies who rent carpet cleaning machines claim that you can clean an average size room in about 20 minutes. Most people will be using the machine to clean 3 to 5 rooms. Easy-peasy, right? Wrong! These other time-sucking tasks ought to be factored into the total time:

• Traveling to and from the store to pick up and drop off the machine
• Checking out and in at the store, including filling out a rental agreement and possibly waiting around, depending on how busy the store is
• Doing research about your carpet to determine whether the type of detergent you plan to use is appropriate
• Reading the manufacturer’s instructions for the machine and the detergent
• Moving furniture and masking and protecting surrounding areas, as needed
• Measuring and refilling water and detergents (maybe more than once per room)
• Pretreating spots and stains
• Vacuuming
• Cleaning the machine after use

3. Are rented carpet cleaning machines difficult to use?

Proper use of a rented carpet cleaning machine is not likely to cause damage. The operative word is proper. Trained, skilled professional carpet cleaning technicians can clean carpets in their sleep. However, you are probably not a properly trained carpet cleaning technician. If any mistakes are made, the results can be problematic. Potential problems include:

• Excessively wet carpets, which can create an offensive odor and invite mold and mildew that can make your family and guests sick
• Damage to carpet or carpet glue that secures carpet fibers caused by using detergents unsafe for certain types of carpet or using too much detergent
• Sticky residue, which acts like a magnet for dust and dirt particles
• Partially cleaned carpets, which result in premature wear over time because abrasive contaminants slice into carpet fibers every time someone takes a step
• Spots setting and becoming permanent stains

Before you rent a carpet cleaning machine, consider that getting more “bang for your buck” may not be worth it in the long run.

Yellowing of White Marble Floors & Surfaces

An elegant white, marble floor makes a sophisticated statement in any home or business. But what happens if your beautiful white marble begins to turn yellow?

Unfortunately, this problem is not uncommon, according to Fred Hueston, Chief Technical Director for Surface Care, who says there are a number of causes for yellowing marble—and a number of possible cures.

Iron Oxidation

The most common culprit for white marble turning yellow is iron, which can be found in many natural stones. When exposed to water, acids or bleach, the iron in the stone will begin to oxidize and turn it yellow. In extreme circumstances, the marble can turn a brown color, akin to what happens to a piece of iron left out in the rain. To find out if your marble contains iron, you can have your stone tested by a lab.

Oxidation is accelerated when marble is saturated with water. If you’ve had a pipe burst or excessive water has been used on the marble floor, have your water tested for iron, especially if you’ll be cleaning with it. It’s also a good idea to test the marble for moisture if it has been soaked with water.

If oxidation is indeed your issue, preparing and applying a poultice solution may rid the yellowing from the marble in some cases. There are also some new products that are aimed at removing iron oxidation. Consult with your stone restoration contractor for poultice mixtures or other products that may work best for your situation.

Wear and Tear

Wear and tear can also cause yellowing of white marble. As the polished surface wears away, trapped dirt in the marble’s pores can give the stone a yellow appearance.

Improper Cleaning

Using dirty mops allows dirt to accumulate and remain even after cleaning, resulting in a dingy, yellow looking floor. This type of yellowing may possibly be removed with a professional cleaning with a heavy-duty stone cleaner.

Wax Build-up

When waxes are used on marble, the waxes themselves can build up and turn yellow, leaving your gorgeous white marble looking aged and yellowed. In this case, the floor will need to be stripped to attempt to remove the color.

Crystallization

Some stone floors are polished using the process of crystallization. If your marble contains any moisture when this type of polishing occurs, the stone will begin to yellow. This can sometimes be reversed with a powder marble polish and if not, the floor will need to be honed by your stone and tile care professional.

Lifeless Travertine?

Having Issues With Your Travertine? Don’t despair!

If the sight of your travertine floors or shower walls is giving you the blues, professional restoration services can brighten your day. Travertine can be cleaned, repaired and restored to like new, for much less than the cost of replacement.

Cleaning

If all the mopping in the world won’t clean your travertine floors or you scrub and scrub the shower and unsightly soap film won’t go away, it’s time for a professional cleaning. With deep cleaning processes, years of imbedded dirt, grime and film can be removed. You will be amazed how clean your travertine will look and feel.

Travertine Repairs

Travertine has pitted holes and troughs by nature. Floor tiles generally come with these holes filled, but sometimes the fillers pop out leaving the holes exposed that become dirt collectors. As a professional stone restoration service, we can fill these holes, leaving your floors with a smoother, cleaner finish. Cracks or chips? We can make most of them virtually invisible.

Travertine Honing & Polishing

Have your dull and lifeless travertine floors got you down? It could be due to etching and scratches. A professional honing and polishing will uncover the beauty of your stone that is lying there just beneath the damaged surface and have you smiling again in no time. The finish on your travertine can be changed from a glossy shine to a satin and matte finish, or vice versa.

Sealing and Color Enhancing Travertine

Sealing fills the pores of your travertine and the fillers to inhibit spills from penetrating and causing stains. But not all travertine needs sealing. Let us take a look. For certain types of travertine, we can apply an enhancing sealer to intensify the color and enrich its natural beauty. Download our free Stone and Tile Care Guide for great tips on caring for you travertine and other natural stone. Feel free to contact us with any questions, or to schedule a time to restore the beauty to your travertine.

Have you ever noticed a slimy pink film form in bath and shower areas? This article explains what it is, how to get rid of it, and how to keep it from coming back.

About Pink Shower Film

Often referred to as “pink mold” or “pink slime,” pink film is a bacterial substance called Serratia marcescens in the family Enterobacteriaceae. It may be pink, pink-orange, orange, or orange-red in color. This airborne bacteria prefers damp conditions, which is why it is commonly found growing in bathrooms on grout lines, in the corners of showers, and along toilet water lines and basins. This slimy film feeds on fatty, phosphorus materials found in soap and shampoo. If left unchecked, this substance can permanently stain natural stone, porous tile, and grout lines.

How to Get Rid of Pink Shower Film

Spray the affected area with a bleach-based disinfectant. Allow the solution to dwell for a few minutes, then use a brush to remove the film. Rinse thoroughly.

What You Should Know About Bleach and Natural Stone

Bleach is an alkaline, Sodium Hypochlorite, which means that it can deposit salts into natural stone, resulting in a dull appearance due to alkaline etching. Using bleach to clean stone every now and then is acceptable, but it is not something you would want to use on a regular basis. Another problem associated with using bleach on natural stone is iron oxidation, or rust, caused a chemical reaction between the bleach and the iron in the stone. Be sure to thoroughly rinse your stone after using any bleach-based cleaner.

Preventing Pink Shower Film

To prevent the return of pink shower film, use a stone-safe cleaner regularly. Take a few minutes to rinse, squeegee, and dry your shower surfaces after each use. Daily care removes the food source and makes the environment less hospitable, which can prevent the reestablishment of the bacterium.

If elimination or prevention proves to be unsuccessful, have your stone and tile professionally cleaned. Unlike regular cleaning methods, professional cleaning flushes contaminants out from deep within porous surfaces. Professional cleaning will leave your stone, tile, and grout lines sanitized and fresh. Preventative measures should prove successful after the pink film is eliminated.

New facts are continually becoming available regarding COVID-19. Consequently, this article will eventually become outdated. For the most up-to-date information, please refer to the Centers for Disease Control and the Environmental Protection Agency.

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Coronavirus Cleaning Information from CDC and EPA

When it comes to cleaning of your carpets, rugs, and upholstery, the Centers for Disease Control’s Cleaning and Disinfection for Households recommends removing visible contamination and cleaning with appropriate cleaners indicated for use on such surfaces, as well as laundering and completely drying soft, porous smaller items using the warmest appropriate water setting according to manufacturer’s instructions. For specific product recommendations, the Environmental Protection Agency published List N: Disinfectants for Use Against SARS-CoV-2. If you are unable to find manufacturer-recommended products for use against SARS-CoV2 suitable for your porous surfaces on the list, look for product labels that confirm an EPA registration number and have human coronavirus listed as a target pathogen. Be sure to follow the label directions for use, including the proper amount of contact time.

Other Resources

For how to protect and prepare yourself or what to do if you think you are sick:

• The President’s Coronavirus Guidelines for America
• Coronavirus Disease 2019 (COVID-19)

For advice, situation reports, media resources, research and development, statistics, and more, from the World Health Organization:
Coronavirus disease 2019

To get answers about disinfectants, drinking water, waste water and septic systems, and indoor air:
Frequent Questions about Coronavirus (COVID-19)

Our Commitment to You

We make a point to provide our clients with helpful tips and information for carpet and upholstery care, but especially so during the COVID-19 pandemic. To protect and maintain a healthy environment in your home or workplace, use soap and warm water to wash your hands, disinfect high-traffic surfaces, frequently use a vacuum with a HEPA filter, clean your porous surfaces, and book an appointment to have your carpets, rugs, and upholstery professionally cleaned as soon as social distancing restrictions are lifted. Feel free to contact us with any specific questions you may have about COVID-19 and our services during this difficult time.

Related article: Carpets, Upholstery, and the New Strain of Coronavirus

This article written by Fred Hueston, Chief Technical Director for Surface Care.

New facts are continually becoming available regarding COVID-19. Consequently, this article will eventually become outdated. For the most up-to-date information, please refer to the Centers for Disease Control and the Environmental Protection Agency.

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The Coronavirus and Your Stone Countertops

The entire world is in a panic over the new coronavirus, and as a stone expert, my phone is ringing off the hook with questions. Can the coronavirus survive on my stone countertop? If so, for how long? What do I use on my stone to properly kill the virus?

As of this writing, there are many unknown facts about the coronavirus. However, there are several studies that have looked at these questions in the past. One such study was recently published in The Journal of Hospital Infections, entitled Persistence of Coronaviruses on Inanimate Surfaces and their Inactivation with Biocidal Agents.

Following is a brief summary of this research.

How long can the coronavirus survive on stone surfaces?

The short answer is, we don’t know. However similar viruses, such as SARS and MERS, can survive for up to 9 days. The common flu virus can last up to 48 hours on a stone surface. Additional studies have shown that the virus can last for over a week but seems to have a shorter lifespan at temperatures over 86 degrees F. Of course, stone surfaces would rarely reach those high temperatures in an average kitchen environment.

Can you get the coronavirus by touching a contaminated stone countertop?

Again, there is not enough information or studies that confirm that the coronavirus acts similar to other viruses. However, some studies are showing that the virus can be killed with standard household disinfectants. One study showed that disinfectants with 62-71% ethanol, 0.5% hydrogen peroxide or 0.1% sodium hypochlorite (bleach) can inactivate the coronavirus within a minute. Although the study shows that the coronavirus is similar to SARS, it is not yet clear if the coronavirus will act the same as SARS. So, can you get the virus by touching a contaminated stone surface? According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), touching a surface is not believed to be the main way the virus is transferred. The most likely way it is spread is from person to person from coughs and sneezing.

How do you properly disinfect your stone surface to kill the coronavirus?

Currently, it is believed that most household disinfectants can kill the virus. However, I have discovered that many people do not know how to properly use these sanitizing solutions. Many people will spray and immediately wipe a disinfectant. This method will not kill the virus. The disinfectant should be allowed to dwell on the countertop for 3-5 minutes to be effective. You can also make your own disinfectant by mixing one half rubbing alcohol with one half water. Spray the disinfectant on the countertop and thoroughly wet the surface. Allow the solution to sit for 3-5 minutes. Rinse with clean water and then dry with a microfiber cloth.

The best advice is to keep your stone countertop clean by following these simple steps.

To keep your granite in tip-top condition, a few simple maintenance procedures are necessary. For best results, they should be followed very closely.

1. Clean the countertop daily with a soft white cloth and a neutral cleaner or stone soap. These products are available at most stone and tile care suppliers.
2. It may be necessary to buff the countertop with a clean white terry cloth towel if streaking occurs.
3. Once a week, clean with a disinfectant.
4. All granite countertops should be sealed.
5. If the countertop becomes stained, immediately blot the spill with a clean paper towel.

According to the World Health Organization (WHO), the best way to avoid the coronavirus is to:

1. Wash your hands frequently. Regularly and thoroughly clean your hands with an alcohol-based hand rub or wash them with soap and water.
2. Maintain social distancing. Maintain at least 1 meter (3 feet) distance between yourself and anyone who is coughing or sneezing.
3. Avoid touching eyes, nose and mouth. Hands touch many surfaces and can pick up viruses. Once contaminated, hands can transfer the virus to your eyes, nose or mouth. From there, the virus can enter your body and can make you sick.
4. Practice respiratory hygiene. Make sure you and the people around you, follow good respiratory hygiene. This means covering your mouth and nose with your bent elbow or tissue when you cough or sneeze. Then dispose of the used tissue immediately.
5. If you have fever, cough and difficulty breathing, seek medical care early. Stay home if you feel unwell. If you have a fever, cough and difficulty breathing, seek medical attention and call in advance. Follow the directions of your local health authority.

A Final Word

As the coronavirus spreads, there is sure to be misinformation on how it spreads. The best way to know the truth is to keep an eye on the CDC and WHO websites, as well as your local health department.

References

1. The Journal of Hospital Infection; Persistence of coronaviruses on inanimate surfaces and their inactivation with biocidal agents; G. Kampfa,∗,Correspondence information about the author G. Kampf; D. Todtb; S. Pfaenderb; E. Steinmannb https://www.journalofhospitalinfection.com/article/S0195-6701(20)30046-3/fulltext
2. World Health Organization-https://www.who.int/emergencies/diseases/novel-coronavirus-2019/advice-for-public
3. The Center for Disease Control and Prevention- https://www.cdc.gov/

This article was published March 11, 2020. New facts are continually becoming available regarding COVID-19. Consequently, this article will eventually become outdated. For the most up-to-date information, please refer to the Center for Disease Control , the World Health Organization and the Environmental Protection Agency.

Most people know by now, with all the media attention given to a new strain of coronavirus, that coronavirus and similar viruses are distributed through coughing, sneezing, talking, and physical contact. Our clients want to know whether they should be concerned about coronavirus on carpets and upholstery. It’s not as if you can douse your furniture and carpets with hand sanitizer or haphazardly use any disinfectant. This article offers some answers, as well as some valuable information on how to sanitize your home against any cold or flu virus.

How long can coronavirus survive on carpet and upholstery?

The infectious lifespan of viruses in general depends on temperature, humidity, and the porosity of the surface where the virus is found. We have flu “season,” because cold, dry environments allow viruses to remain infectious longer.

In a 2011 study called Survival of Influenza A(H1N1) on Materials Found in Households: Implications for Infection Control by Dr. Jane Greatorex at Public Health England, findings showed the virus remained infectious about twice as long on non-porous surfaces, such as plastic and metal, as porous surfaces, like clothing, wood, and the like. Your carpet and upholstery is porous, which means it is less hospitable to viruses than non-porous surfaces. However, your carpet and upholstery is still cool and dry.

According to a study recently published in The Journal of Hospital Infections entitled Persistence of coronaviruses on inanimate surfaces and their inactivation with biocidal agents, the new strain of coronavirus, like similar viruses, such as SARS and MERS, can survive for anywhere from 2 hours to 9 days on a surface. Although there are proven methods for preventing the spread of known coronaviruses, these methods have never been tested against this specific virus. So, until more information is available, our recommendations for dealing with the new strain of coronavirus on carpet and upholstery can only be based on what coronaviruses in general, and we cannot offer any guarantees that these measures and professional carpet cleaning will eliminate the new strain of coronaviruses.

Keeping Surfaces Clean

It is always a good idea to protect your family by keeping all of your surfaces clean, especially during flu season.

• Wash your hands often with sanitizing liquid soap and warm water.
• Disinfect surfaces that see a lot of hand-traffic, such as doorknobs, and light switches, as well as countertops, walls, and floors.
• Use a HEPA filter in your vacuum so that small particles are trapped instead of being blown back into the air. Vacuum often.
• Schedule professional cleaning services for your carpets, rugs, and upholstery as soon as social distancing requirements are lifted and you feel safe to do so.
• Check this list for products that can help prevent the spread of viruses. Be sure to check the label and verify they are specifically marked as safe to use on carpet and upholstery.

Why Upholstery and Carpet Cleaning Matters

As you step up your normal cleaning routine and sanitize your home, don’t forget about your fine surfaces, such as upholstery, carpet, and rugs. These surfaces are often overlooked. The couch is a cozy, comforting place to rest when one has a virus.

Vacuuming regularly can help keep your carpeting and interior textiles clean and fresh. Use high quality vacuum bags in order to prevent particles from escaping your vacuum, returning into the indoor air, and settling back onto carpets and upholstery, do not allow bags to become overly full, and never reuse bags.

For more good, sound care information, including how to maintain your vacuum cleaner, read our free, downloadable Carpet and Interior Textiles Care Guide. Chances are you will find the answers to any questions you may have about caring for your carpet, upholstery, or other interior textiles in this valuable resource, and of course, you can always feel free to contact us with specific questions.

Although we cannot claim to completely eliminate the possibility of preventing the spread of the new strain of coronavirus, or any virus for that matter, we can tell you that the conditions created by professional carpet cleaning are not hospitable to the infectious lifespan of viruses. Proper professional carpet and upholstery cleaning involves both heat and moisture, so having your carpets and upholstery cleaned can help ease your mind. If the new strain of coronavirus proves to be like those already tested in the past, professional cleaning will decrease the chances of coronavirus surviving on your interior textiles. Once social distancing measures are lifted and you feel safe to do so, schedule professional cleaning services.

The Dangers of Pressure Washing Stone and Masonry Surfaces

Are you a property owner or manager looking for a cleaning solution for dirty concrete and sidewalks, oily driveways, and other sullied surfaces? You may have considered pressure washing, which is a fast and easy way to clean such surfaces, but be warned, when it comes to stone and masonry, pressure washing can cause damage. Anyone can purchase a pressure washer and claim to be qualified to clean exterior stone and masonry. One should always opt to consult with a professional stone restoration contractor for safe, lasting results.

Over-saturation Can Cause Efflorescence

Pressure washing can remove the natural protective patina of stone and masonry surfaces. It will also remove any coating or sealers. This opens up the pores in the surface, allowing water to seep deep into the stone or masonry. The higher the pressure, the more water the stone or masonry will consume, and the more saturated it will become. Over-saturated stone or masonry can cause a condition known as efflorescence, a white powdery residue that accumulates on the surface. This powder consists of salts originating from the stone and the setting material. The salts are dissolved from the water and deposited on the surface. In many cases the salts will deposit into the pores without making their way all the way to the surface, causing pitting, flaking and delamination.

Scarring/Gouging

In order to get difficult soiling removed, many contractors will intentionally not place tips on their pressure washers. This can cause severe scarring of the surface. It is easy to recognize scarring by deep patterns carved into the surface of the stone or masonry.

Chemicals

In addition to pressure washing, unqualified contractors often use inappropriate chemicals in an attempt to help remove the soiling. These chemicals are applied before and during the pressure washing process. The chemicals can be driven deep into the stone with the high water pressure, causing etching and other damage. Common chemicals are acids, bleach, and high alkaline cleaners, which if not applied and neutralized properly, can cause irreversible damage.

Missing Grout and Point

Grout on interior surfaces and point on exterior surfaces can be removed by pressure washing. Grout and point can become soft, weak, and crack with age. Using a pressure washer accelerates this process through over-saturation.

The Proper Use of Pressure Washing

Not all pressure washing is damaging, and if done properly, it can be a good cleaning solution. If you intend to have anyone other than a professional stone and masonry restoration contractor use a pressure washer on your surfaces, you, or whoever performs the cleaning, needs to be aware of the following:

• The surface to be cleaned should be inspected and evaluated to determine the softness of the material.
• Grout and point should be examined carefully before washing.
• Never use a pressure washer over 1000 PSI.
• Never use a zero-point tip. Only fan tips should be used.
• Do not use bleach, acids, or high-alkaline chemicals on stone or masonry surfaces.
• The pressure washing tip should be at least 12 inches from the surface of the material being cleaned.

In order to avoid damage, it is best not to do your own pressure washing or to hire a pressure washing company to clean stone or masonry. Save yourself the trouble and consult with a professional stone and masonry restoration contractor.